Going with the Flow

Remember this linen shell from months ago? The one I said I had several colors of silk charmeuse ready to go for? Well I finally dug out this pattern again, made some final tweaks, and sewed it up over the weekend. Only it didn't turn out the way I planned.

Do you see anything different here?

Original

Silk Version

Yes the pleats are backwards. That's because I decided I wanted the dull side of the charmeuse on the outside, but forgot when I was doing the french seams and sewed it inside out. Of course I didn't notice after only one seam, I think I had the entire front section together. So instead of ripping it all out I decided to just go with the flow, and make it up shiny side out with inside out pleats. I meant to do that, right?

On the upside, I did draft an all in one facing for this version, following the instructions in Claire Schaeffer's High Fashion Sewing Secrets.* I interfaced the facing only, finishing the raw edge with pinking shears. And I made my very own fabric covered button for the back neckline, and a fabric loop also following Saint Claire's book. Why is there a button there you ask? Oh just a little problem with a too-short zipper. The sewing gods obviously did not want me to finish this shell the way I had imagined. They were probably also responsible for the grease/dirt spots my sewing machine left on the right shoulder when the fabric bumped up against the needle arm. *&%$^$ Luckily after washing it 3 times after finishing it, I was able to get them out. And I can now say with confidence that pinked, interfaced silk charmeuse holds up perfectly well to machine washing.

All-in-one facing, it faces the neckline and armholes together,
and is tacked down at the princess and side seams.

My fabric-covered button (thanks Susan K!)

I will take some outfit photos later this week, but I'm planning on wearing it tucked into skirts and pants with a cardigan. I really needed some interesting layers like this for work.

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In other news, my wonderful friend in DC for whom I made the Michael Kors knockoff is sending me two more Diane von Furstenberg dresses to copy. She has an impressive library of them, (most of which are my size!), and is generous enough to let me borrow whatever I want. Now to find some more silk jersey....

*I feel like I should send this woman more money, I have used so many techniques in that book.