tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65577143477893136892024-03-12T18:47:00.083-07:00Loohoo OriginalsLesliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17515398019906104409noreply@blogger.comBlogger69125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-46306381782907625262012-07-30T19:58:00.000-07:002012-07-31T14:15:00.882-07:00Cuffed Pants Hem TutorialI bought some great <a href="http://www.anntaylor.com/product-01234/ann--product--product%3A272408--AT-Modern--Modern-Herringbone-Wide-Leg-Trousers--272408/10714157/false/search/6258.shtml">pants</a> from Ann Taylor recently, a rayon/cotton/spandex blend herringbone fully lined in poly, with cuffed hems. For $40, thank you additional 40% off clearance rack. When taking them apart to re-hem, I really liked the way they did it, so here for your future assistance (or total confusion, we'll see) is the method. This creates a 1 3/4" cuff, I'm sure you could modify the numbers to make it wider or narrower but I'll leave the math to you.<br />
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(If you're starting with already hemmed pants, you need to rip out all the previous stitching. Yes it's a pain, just get it over with and then pretend it didn't happen.)<br />
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<b>1. You need a 3" hem allowance.</b> That means 3 inches of fabric below where you want the pants to stop. Easiest way to figure this out is measure the inseam (inside leg seam from crotch to hem) on a pair of pants that is the length you want. If you don't have any to measure, fold up a hem and secure with pins, then try on. Repeat until you find the right length and then measure the inseam. Once you've marked the length, measure 3" past that and cut off the excess fabric.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtIN9hbOokx8RFUgSypGMxVmS9-TFiSVENDd8WMY_mtWUsddr6EI9ReC168puxdfqqI9qCvBk31rqmtoZVlqW3-QPDo_MUkSm-JtapP2mJeUGeDzW_NF0q4xNEvTxINOR0Ouc_Q1sETGQ/s1600/P1070593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtIN9hbOokx8RFUgSypGMxVmS9-TFiSVENDd8WMY_mtWUsddr6EI9ReC168puxdfqqI9qCvBk31rqmtoZVlqW3-QPDo_MUkSm-JtapP2mJeUGeDzW_NF0q4xNEvTxINOR0Ouc_Q1sETGQ/s400/P1070593.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pin is marking finished length, there is 3" of fabric past that. See those previous fold lines? I like my pants to be a little longer in back, so I altered the slope of the cut, which is why it isn't parallel to the old hem lines.</td></tr>
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<b>2. Finish the raw edge. </b> For this method you need 1/2" tape, preferably something soft like hem lace, rayon seam binding, etc. All I had on hand in a lighter color was twill tape, which was a little too stiff for my taste but it got the job done. Working from the right side of the pants, sew the tape to the edge leaving 1/2 the tape hanging over. I sewed one pass right on the edge of the tape, then another down the middle. This fabric was fraying like mad and the second pass helped hold it. Doesn't really matter where you start sewing, and you don't need to precut the tape. When you get back to where you started, cut it long enough to tuck the end under, then sew it down over the raw edge.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tape attached to edge, with end folded over the raw edge and sewed down. </td></tr>
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3. <b>Fold up 4" to the outside and press.</b> Don't ask why yet. Just do. The 4" includes the tape, you should have ~1/4" of tape hanging off the edge of the fabric. The pants are right side out, and you flip the fabric out so the right sides are touching.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSn8YFa6mxHQj0-6dLqVxVjWxZY5CEFBSaqABIhxRI9-ZmoZwYtXXJdJ3wj4nVHaUeuIWB2soMs4dSb0G_5IIZtKPIHIqxuVwoLNjOqB4CsqSFF93e-R3bUQWDUM5K9jQgtcNDx1WqO2E/s1600/P1070597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSn8YFa6mxHQj0-6dLqVxVjWxZY5CEFBSaqABIhxRI9-ZmoZwYtXXJdJ3wj4nVHaUeuIWB2soMs4dSb0G_5IIZtKPIHIqxuVwoLNjOqB4CsqSFF93e-R3bUQWDUM5K9jQgtcNDx1WqO2E/s400/P1070597.JPG" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pants are right side out, hem is flipped up. Fold up 4" and press.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOEkCXoZSCPEpSh62x5zCRqkRCJRB4xaCFC56g90hPfsQsYgOZ699-7KpxDMSEv_MpUqJhUH5yVVd2Zqr3kL777lIdS2volGPea23vQkN5ItWzVsouVKA6lHr1Da8vIeeiF6Wx4KqRsM/s1600/P1070598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOEkCXoZSCPEpSh62x5zCRqkRCJRB4xaCFC56g90hPfsQsYgOZ699-7KpxDMSEv_MpUqJhUH5yVVd2Zqr3kL777lIdS2volGPea23vQkN5ItWzVsouVKA6lHr1Da8vIeeiF6Wx4KqRsM/s400/P1070598.JPG" width="326" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PRESS. PRESS I SAY!</td></tr>
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<b>4. Sew a 1/4 inch seam. </b> Pants are still right side out, and you are sewing on the wrong side. This is the cool part. This seam will help hold the cuff in place later.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWXl_9AkInDtrr4dsQvAXOOQC2hjUEbjtYroicfLhqCjCdZEYoaw0pX9xDR119LmGpbMrcfS0J4lMjWScQaIJM6_-3tJvYhf32pIVJU078yzCKMBc9IBepyGoNFDazFG0XNDUYygJz6wE/s1600/P1070599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWXl_9AkInDtrr4dsQvAXOOQC2hjUEbjtYroicfLhqCjCdZEYoaw0pX9xDR119LmGpbMrcfS0J4lMjWScQaIJM6_-3tJvYhf32pIVJU078yzCKMBc9IBepyGoNFDazFG0XNDUYygJz6wE/s400/P1070599.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sew 1/4" seam along pressed edge.</td></tr>
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<b> 5. Fold the top of the cuff. </b> Turn the pants inside out. A ham or sleeve roll will make it easier to press this, you'll need to do it in sections. Fold the seam you just sewed towards the bottom of the pants, and leave 2 1/2" inches of fabric + tape hanging off the bottom. Press into place. You will not be pressing open that seam you sewed, there should be a ~ 1/2" fabric 'bump' to the left of it. Do this all the way around the hem.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitI2R5ldmjFklMSARTWXBOts-__9mUc9F_BlvsxAYetP6TJ4ZLrHl2E1-IY-d4Cy-int2Rq2zYAxKIUQI4ajRW9MU3m-vNI45zrTl5qHdfjSUM0HSIzrzil3F5DqiZgOxA3dARr8MS6E0/s1600/P1070600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitI2R5ldmjFklMSARTWXBOts-__9mUc9F_BlvsxAYetP6TJ4ZLrHl2E1-IY-d4Cy-int2Rq2zYAxKIUQI4ajRW9MU3m-vNI45zrTl5qHdfjSUM0HSIzrzil3F5DqiZgOxA3dARr8MS6E0/s400/P1070600.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pants inside out, fold seam towards bottom and leave 2 1/2" of fabric/tape.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimASncyc_0tPksaTm4xVngkR4kkVcmlfVKRk8ec_-1r6QTSiTxGeKHTy_KhT2U3O1o3cLWFrLevHcn-xKWBrgLBbHb0OQYlHhV5TYki4OznaSX15TelMmLSh0yoAk7Z_pzNRJZoZF6Dnw/s1600/P1070601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimASncyc_0tPksaTm4xVngkR4kkVcmlfVKRk8ec_-1r6QTSiTxGeKHTy_KhT2U3O1o3cLWFrLevHcn-xKWBrgLBbHb0OQYlHhV5TYki4OznaSX15TelMmLSh0yoAk7Z_pzNRJZoZF6Dnw/s400/P1070601.JPG" width="305" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PRESS</td></tr>
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<b> 6. Fold the bottom of the cuff.</b> Turn the pants right side out, and press again. See that fabric bump now? Fold the tape to the inside of the pants, creating a 1 3/4" cuff on the outside. Press, repeat. We're almost done.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5VVkFk6gEmxSGksKmHyEVv0P-OKETvCLRdmMy-uiL9YmrM74sjaIPd-X_1-1CSQ_JQLggQllwA_yp3GgAMv3bOwDHznhWxYB9SPeuaiy9ODJsokFoHP0FBoZYFJMFCJSUt831JGuSh_A/s1600/P1070602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5VVkFk6gEmxSGksKmHyEVv0P-OKETvCLRdmMy-uiL9YmrM74sjaIPd-X_1-1CSQ_JQLggQllwA_yp3GgAMv3bOwDHznhWxYB9SPeuaiy9ODJsokFoHP0FBoZYFJMFCJSUt831JGuSh_A/s400/P1070602.JPG" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pants are right side out, fold tape hem to inside of pants.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Vn_WrCgICzD0O8uuauX29KdpLPF5GnX4ydhVJ_YJK_lFTYk8X63Z_UprBm0fejj7xM-i993JlUNVQhzSVotBhqT1NuguwsaUeUYyFaglJkdwmPun-Wsb08YRR61dgm7VgVtyTHSof04/s1600/P1070603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Vn_WrCgICzD0O8uuauX29KdpLPF5GnX4ydhVJ_YJK_lFTYk8X63Z_UprBm0fejj7xM-i993JlUNVQhzSVotBhqT1NuguwsaUeUYyFaglJkdwmPun-Wsb08YRR61dgm7VgVtyTHSof04/s400/P1070603.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make a 1 3/4" cuff by folding the tape hem to the inside.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhxncLrj2pM8APtye_M7p364SYSQCtBs6gztF0MP4qjjkq-gN8EIMMg6el22PMQ0l0PkCXmFuxWm_9ypEnQBgDlxCGXgcqJdXOLuqu8pO0PGGA3kJalIyMJ1b85Q2804MJ43cecQQcgA/s1600/P1070604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhxncLrj2pM8APtye_M7p364SYSQCtBs6gztF0MP4qjjkq-gN8EIMMg6el22PMQ0l0PkCXmFuxWm_9ypEnQBgDlxCGXgcqJdXOLuqu8pO0PGGA3kJalIyMJ1b85Q2804MJ43cecQQcgA/s400/P1070604.JPG" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PRESS AGAIN. Are you tired of this yet?</td></tr>
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<b>7. Sew the hem tape to the inside of the pants.</b> I totally cheated here, I used steam-a-seam. But the nice thing about this method is you've got a little pad of fabric to sew (or glue) to, which won't be seen from the front because it's covered by the cuff. You can hand sew this (easily, since you don't have to hide the stitches), use steam a seam or stitch witchery, or if you've got a blindstitch machine, have at it. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sew hem tape to inside of pants. There should be a nice fold of fabric to sew to that won't show on the cuff.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZAAAn8RR9lTJLWxNPOgsy2hgH2QccjUtS9DtFmfJdaml2KOj_304p2RGSVAhCf88M3_s2UKBTdMYqCJZmX1qfiHVKlSWfuHo-xovOtifglbGxlSVYHz9zoruZMaFAyX09agorNKNJEA/s1600/P1070606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZAAAn8RR9lTJLWxNPOgsy2hgH2QccjUtS9DtFmfJdaml2KOj_304p2RGSVAhCf88M3_s2UKBTdMYqCJZmX1qfiHVKlSWfuHo-xovOtifglbGxlSVYHz9zoruZMaFAyX09agorNKNJEA/s400/P1070606.JPG" width="361" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheater's best friend.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtWgK8GHV8DZIxWwS0afagCmWUIc2Tkceyp2eMddH3BHFqVEgCVssKHMvsNqMnY9Y8yWYPAGbj_RPvdXCRcte79SFL_Kem24uJBLZ2GVhtEiuuEpiSva8QhIrdMUIU77-9vtjAh4S4pg/s1600/P1070608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAtWgK8GHV8DZIxWwS0afagCmWUIc2Tkceyp2eMddH3BHFqVEgCVssKHMvsNqMnY9Y8yWYPAGbj_RPvdXCRcte79SFL_Kem24uJBLZ2GVhtEiuuEpiSva8QhIrdMUIU77-9vtjAh4S4pg/s400/P1070608.JPG" width="331" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I worked in 3-4" sections, sticking down the tape and then ironing to fuse it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnrWD8cJoqG8DmAOq2go0JCwzOHlxNB4MZhheLqSFp4IuGmstmfXCU5KwwVHDer26Xs0pMYSpYKjuo6GrVOqZge__IH3udMJujjHQYP77UfKV-MC85yuuutV8_vyYmHzyYiomRXWf_T0/s1600/P1070609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGnrWD8cJoqG8DmAOq2go0JCwzOHlxNB4MZhheLqSFp4IuGmstmfXCU5KwwVHDer26Xs0pMYSpYKjuo6GrVOqZge__IH3udMJujjHQYP77UfKV-MC85yuuutV8_vyYmHzyYiomRXWf_T0/s400/P1070609.JPG" width="346" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished hem on the inside. The tape is bunching up a bit, when I did the second side I pulled it taut while sewing to ease in the fabric. Turned out much better, but I did not retake the photos so you get to look at my wonky tape. Even so it still looks good from the outside, so I'd say this method is pretty forgiving. However if you want it to look super purty from the inside, use a softer tape and tug on the tape slightly while sewing it to the raw edge.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4vO7CQJd2fBwtlBtloyozv96uB47IZaXLTfBSL05xoSR75CSWo2xDzQEnRbtRasFdRZ6gqBkWFqPIFEynOHN_takElq5NlIqTnXHtkHVAAs07iQ02xG8WN2WqI9AkAa81eeJ5Da1bQJE/s1600/P1070610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4vO7CQJd2fBwtlBtloyozv96uB47IZaXLTfBSL05xoSR75CSWo2xDzQEnRbtRasFdRZ6gqBkWFqPIFEynOHN_takElq5NlIqTnXHtkHVAAs07iQ02xG8WN2WqI9AkAa81eeJ5Da1bQJE/s400/P1070610.JPG" width="376" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the outside!</td></tr>
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<b>8. Stitch in the ditch along the two side seams. </b> You can do this on a regular machine, the stitches will be hidden in the 'ditch' of the seam. This will help hold the cuff in place. In case you happen to be walking down a hallway at work and catch your high heel in the cuff and go flying towards the floor. Not that I've experienced that or anything. But at least your hem won't come undone.<br />
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That's it! I'd say the second leg only took me about 15 minutes to do, so it's not a huge amount of time for a professional looking hem. Also, most of the other methods I've seen use a longer hem allowance (4"), so this one saves an inch of fabric. Good ready-to-wear is chock full of great methods to learn.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-51038640034406537532011-12-14T17:08:00.000-08:002011-12-14T17:08:39.717-08:00A gown for a Vegas wedding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My husband and I were lucky enough (or unlucky, you choose) to be invited to 4 weddings this year, and every dress I wore was made by me, although that wasn't my intention. Vegas in November was the last of them, and I was all set to go store bought for this one. The only request was that it be floor-length. I ordered a great <a href="http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/ProductDetail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524446236090&afsrc=1&site_refer=GGLPRADS001&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=0774346043723&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=%7Bkeyword%7D">dress</a> online (navy one-shoulder with beading and a slit), it came and fit perfectly except for the length. And the value. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It was polyester jersey with a poly lining, no inner structure at all except for clear elastic applied to the neckline. And $270. No no no no no. I just couldn't do it. I had about 3 weeks to either hem it or come up with plan B. So I ordered fabric swatches from Emma One Sock of this <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/fabrics/bottomweight61996.asp">high-tech stretch matte crepe</a> that was touted as a cross between 4-ply silk crepe and matte jersey. They of course arrived in about 2 days, and I loved the color of the navy. I could tell even from the swatch that it wasn't as drapey as the poly jersey, or even true matte jersey, but decided to work with it anyways. More on that later.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I made a copy of the original dress, using a combination of laying the pieces flat over butcher paper and tracing, and measuring seam lengths and hem/strap width. Since the dress is gathered along one side, it's pretty tricky, but I think I was able to get really close. Paying attention to the grain will tell you how much you need to spread the pattern on the side to get the same amount of gathering. It was the same front and back, if you can believe that. I know, I tried it on both ways and it fit the same.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Yes I returned the dress. Within a week's time, and it was no worse for the wear. If you have a problem with this stop reading, obviously my moral compass is not the same as yours. I don't plan to make a habit of this, or do anything else with the pattern.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The fabric was very substantial on it's own, so even though the original dress had a full poly lining (it seemed really flimsy to me, but actually did the job under the nicer poly jersey), I only used a partial lining to the waist. For the beading, I found this gorgeous <a href="http://www.shinetrim.com/trim/beaded-sequins/beaded-louise-trim">trim</a> at Shine Trim's website. I actually much prefer this to the one color seed beads sewn to the original dress, and I made mine go down all the way to the top of the slit. Having it stop at the hip looked off to me.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>My copy, and the original</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybdvSoCpIWF8rdlHogXj9R-jARk-NX7TDDYgT3fCKLOOnDDam8x0jLb7DZK5oP5hVuZwbZO5nEFwnfRbWG0ywYbkn0J42hJjSTymLMjBER7Kt8sTFvQcuD1s28rdnyqh3D5HECWy-DE4/s1600/blue+dress2-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybdvSoCpIWF8rdlHogXj9R-jARk-NX7TDDYgT3fCKLOOnDDam8x0jLb7DZK5oP5hVuZwbZO5nEFwnfRbWG0ywYbkn0J42hJjSTymLMjBER7Kt8sTFvQcuD1s28rdnyqh3D5HECWy-DE4/s640/blue+dress2-2.jpg" width="640" /></a><b> </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When the fabric arrived from EOS, I was able to give it a better stretch test, and it had much less than the jersey. Gathers also lay very different with drapey vs firm-bodied fabric. Not necessarily a bad thing, but any time you change out one fabric for another with the same pattern, even just the color, the results can be unpredictable. I think I added 2-3 inches to the pattern around the body to account for the decrease in stretch, and an inch in the bodice for the lack of drape. I was in a time crunch so I did not make a muslin. (GASP! THE HORROR!) (I never do this, especially not with a brand new pattern).</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Either my skills have increased or I got really lucky (probably both), because the fit was really good right off the bat. I couldn't even try it on until I had most of it together anyways. I ended up taking it in around the hip level and below, although the pattern of the jersey dress was straight down from the hip, on the body it curves in more due to the fabric drape. Since mine didn't have the same drape (not that it was stiff at all, it just wasn't drapey jersey), I had to create that look by taking in the side seams.</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Inside of dress showing neckline and lining</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT1V26GKitT0zPHUSvyJpypPsFOywshXY8zzd9-kW9sascNtWvQ5yjZGaOA4dNGKaQteQ7MNz2SrFlMns78E4emKMHzTDHICQOmZ8w4Z_xgcXOjZClSvijrjdp93mjgKW8IXbPS4UxvSA/s1600/P1060492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT1V26GKitT0zPHUSvyJpypPsFOywshXY8zzd9-kW9sascNtWvQ5yjZGaOA4dNGKaQteQ7MNz2SrFlMns78E4emKMHzTDHICQOmZ8w4Z_xgcXOjZClSvijrjdp93mjgKW8IXbPS4UxvSA/s320/P1060492.JPG" width="320" /></a><b> </b> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Inside of dress showing lining and armhole</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmxlbnpEKTKWIYdsmTIaiRkC0rLgssxyhiNXRzlsZyyV-MALG7q6dSVM1iINQPA2uyDStjWtcZXA-Rvp_e0UGtbbR5uInX3ukm9TLQrcI6KjcKWzq79r_72wbvme777mdCKFb4h1NWs0/s1600/P1060493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmxlbnpEKTKWIYdsmTIaiRkC0rLgssxyhiNXRzlsZyyV-MALG7q6dSVM1iINQPA2uyDStjWtcZXA-Rvp_e0UGtbbR5uInX3ukm9TLQrcI6KjcKWzq79r_72wbvme777mdCKFb4h1NWs0/s320/P1060493.JPG" width="320" /></a><b> </b> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My invisible zip came out great the first try, although I did make sure to interface the opening, and there's not much that isn't easier on an industrial machine with the right foot. ( You haven't lived until you've inserted a zip with a real metal invisible zip foot instead of those flimsy plastic ones they usually sell for this purpose). </div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Closeup of beading, and seam with invisible zipper</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOo8pzntPysVkovEuUM3VKram0gplhG31r_wHQUkZ3SjU1cT3XQyb8qR_pChkYN1FCuN0m8OLNw6IKf2TJRoZZrEseK1KgpKkJ9nK02mz6-Aqz4GRNWQYZJZAcr_bmF6Wq3urzEOBF1nA/s1600/Collages1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOo8pzntPysVkovEuUM3VKram0gplhG31r_wHQUkZ3SjU1cT3XQyb8qR_pChkYN1FCuN0m8OLNw6IKf2TJRoZZrEseK1KgpKkJ9nK02mz6-Aqz4GRNWQYZJZAcr_bmF6Wq3urzEOBF1nA/s320/Collages1-1.jpg" width="320" /></a><b> </b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><br />
I applied the beading last, handstitching it down over the gathered side seam. I finished the seams on my serger, and also serged a blind-stitched hem. The fabric behaved beautifully on both the industrial straight stitch and the serger.<br />
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<b>Hem</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiruLT0_qBZTVVbQRBy_zdRSOEdwLDr1az3A5q-3MURMp-Fy-EdpEXJpnMQTP5Yf3c2ToeXk0lhMx9Gzq03KcsKXuIIC-6LSMvz_UAE4u3kDhF0xiPKVgjKjupS9G1vNMDM0McfNbi6Rtg/s1600/P1060496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiruLT0_qBZTVVbQRBy_zdRSOEdwLDr1az3A5q-3MURMp-Fy-EdpEXJpnMQTP5Yf3c2ToeXk0lhMx9Gzq03KcsKXuIIC-6LSMvz_UAE4u3kDhF0xiPKVgjKjupS9G1vNMDM0McfNbi6Rtg/s320/P1060496.JPG" width="320" /></a><b> </b><br />
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I got a lot of compliments on the dress, and spent about $130 total on the materials. The fabric is so much nicer than the original dress, it feels substantial and has a lot less sheen. The gathers don't lay as flat as the jersey though, and if the fabric were any stiffer I don't think they would have worked at all. But I'm happy I was able to anticipate the differences and make allowances for them.<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;"><b>Original dress</b> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtKlZAMT2ej2X45vEI_mz3GfNEFNzsz4rUoukkpZRWi1n__A2-bejf_spxL3YDTKYpkYsub10QShwhmus97SL9iz-17wRAbNyY7Dr00eJyNp2g-fHfsVZjf42w4ZHmGmSF-8PcSyQGyw/s1600/P1060465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfRgmcZDwLwcLIPwmaBUiI6Hwfdvd4p0Po8G_bH2ZIFiX1vJsi6siUqW8-2-uIZesgDjdtGnETL-OqvgffuLEz_P80pOtdxZhZjbEzKO6YJg-nu_bzx_qRyYi0AznfC8ZDAb9qgDrjb7g/s1600/Collages-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfRgmcZDwLwcLIPwmaBUiI6Hwfdvd4p0Po8G_bH2ZIFiX1vJsi6siUqW8-2-uIZesgDjdtGnETL-OqvgffuLEz_P80pOtdxZhZjbEzKO6YJg-nu_bzx_qRyYi0AznfC8ZDAb9qgDrjb7g/s320/Collages-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</a></div><b>My Copy</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiybdvSoCpIWF8rdlHogXj9R-jARk-NX7TDDYgT3fCKLOOnDDam8x0jLb7DZK5oP5hVuZwbZO5nEFwnfRbWG0ywYbkn0J42hJjSTymLMjBER7Kt8sTFvQcuD1s28rdnyqh3D5HECWy-DE4/s1600/blue+dress2-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMh_MJE3VaL0ouA17R5IRYoVhVnh0Ps5vdU4DNO1Px7j23SAqTJKf_u_1t2nXuFPEeMNAqlECJMMM9vzBMGu1I8TixDgBXm0ZZflC9QWaiAEsq1scr7NVlOfMT-tREax2IwXNNBwS9jls/s1600/blue+dress-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMh_MJE3VaL0ouA17R5IRYoVhVnh0Ps5vdU4DNO1Px7j23SAqTJKf_u_1t2nXuFPEeMNAqlECJMMM9vzBMGu1I8TixDgBXm0ZZflC9QWaiAEsq1scr7NVlOfMT-tREax2IwXNNBwS9jls/s320/blue+dress-2.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOo8pzntPysVkovEuUM3VKram0gplhG31r_wHQUkZ3SjU1cT3XQyb8qR_pChkYN1FCuN0m8OLNw6IKf2TJRoZZrEseK1KgpKkJ9nK02mz6-Aqz4GRNWQYZJZAcr_bmF6Wq3urzEOBF1nA/s1600/Collages1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-53949603423366289122011-05-16T09:19:00.000-07:002011-05-16T09:27:13.748-07:00Karina Grimaldi maxi dress knockoff<div style="text-align: left;">I've been drooling over this Karina Grimaldi maxi <a href="http://www.shopbop.com/biscot-tank-dress-karina-grimaldi/vp/v=1/845524441889097.htm?fm=search-shopbysize">dress</a> on shopbop for awhile now, and finally decided to do something about it over the weekend. Here is the description from shopbop.com's website.</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOBq8cr5F4Qn8zYuyWPzqUqH0DB3WA1sDFNCbw3L6BBX3tt2YBj3VwW9s_mMHyraz6Mx6fox-QdsmtOJpLEelIgs_3-VDEEDxcFE-VDEBJNglJA2sJ4hWqELRhXxR4dtrE7FxuPtcwCw/s1600/karin4000510976_p1_v1_m56577569832202077_347x683.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOBq8cr5F4Qn8zYuyWPzqUqH0DB3WA1sDFNCbw3L6BBX3tt2YBj3VwW9s_mMHyraz6Mx6fox-QdsmtOJpLEelIgs_3-VDEEDxcFE-VDEBJNglJA2sJ4hWqELRhXxR4dtrE7FxuPtcwCw/s400/karin4000510976_p1_v1_m56577569832202077_347x683.jpg" width="202" /></a>This scoop-neck jersey maxi dress features a racer back and a striped skirt. Unfinished hem. 1.5" straps.<br />
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* 56" long, measured from shoulder.<br />
* Fabrication: Jersey.<br />
* 100% modal.<br />
* Hand wash or dry clean.<br />
* Made in the USA. <br />
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I started with my favorite tank top pattern, and changed the back to more of a racerback style. I lowered the neckline as well. For the skirt part I cut wide crosswise strips, then serged them together to make panels for the front and back. The only tricky part was figuring out how wide to make them, I really liked the proportions on the model but seeing as I'm not 5'10" I wasn't sure it would work. I tried to guess how long the skirt portion would be, divided that by 5, and came up with 7.2" based on my height. I cut the strips 8" wide (including seam allowances), making them wider at the bottom. I measured another maxi dress of mine to see how wide the bottom needed to be (~35"), and just made the strips narrower as I went up until it matched my hip measurement. Once I had the front and back skirt panels, I pinned them together and serged straight a-line side seams, cutting off all the excess. Even with good planning, I still had to make adjustments as I went along so it would hang parallel to the floor, pinning it to the tank top until I liked how it looked.</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5jA9pAp00mvJAHxlQ1UWr1Fr7FF5V7TVQ4QYrerEecnaxHLu557Knrv6XKK-urC6OYlMhsohrUF4g3c2S6_NdonLk6jt2vhGjHTmbMRIDSxC-RTd25NZvSQ-tzqBn8O7JRgWU6ThkhY/s1600/P1050986-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5jA9pAp00mvJAHxlQ1UWr1Fr7FF5V7TVQ4QYrerEecnaxHLu557Knrv6XKK-urC6OYlMhsohrUF4g3c2S6_NdonLk6jt2vhGjHTmbMRIDSxC-RTd25NZvSQ-tzqBn8O7JRgWU6ThkhY/s640/P1050986-1.JPG" style="margin-top: 0px;" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">8" wide strips serged together</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1EO-FFCU-6gPqQnCeTJgjDWELXcHk9xf1bcpexM2arI-12ZyGef7hK6_7o4M_ey_MVLn-5QFiPTsUwVMs4abd29Rz9xMHVLH15R3aPlA5-_mcMt4HgcDaxDrRR6MaEnuvgdpTsSrzZo/s1600/Export1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="616" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1EO-FFCU-6gPqQnCeTJgjDWELXcHk9xf1bcpexM2arI-12ZyGef7hK6_7o4M_ey_MVLn-5QFiPTsUwVMs4abd29Rz9xMHVLH15R3aPlA5-_mcMt4HgcDaxDrRR6MaEnuvgdpTsSrzZo/s640/Export1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"> I used <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/fabrics/rayonlycrajerseyel.asp">11oz rayon/lycra jersey</a> from Emma One Sock. Whenever I need a good quality knit I head straight for Linda's website. I know her fabrics are always excellent quality and when I spend the time to sew something I don't want to run into pilly knits or poor recovery. Not to mention the time saved not having to look all over the place for the right fabric. I got a yard of the almond and 1.5 yards of the black, and had enough leftover for probably a tank top from each. ~$50 in fabric, versus $196 for the RTW dress. In addition I added a power mesh lining to the top part of the skirt, the 11oz weight isn't see through but in a light color it needs something.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3tbZ0PJNQBf2CDj2BQu5iExZbgUoYE2a4cW8p5iPc5khhV97xlmy8wvG7NootVZ7gryMnzn4Z0MDXBhxGjuy72L1Vl1BrE2PlxykKZ-WvyOeHp9w52g7TOzZL2Do1sBMYPk691Bk9xkQ/s1600/P1060018.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3tbZ0PJNQBf2CDj2BQu5iExZbgUoYE2a4cW8p5iPc5khhV97xlmy8wvG7NootVZ7gryMnzn4Z0MDXBhxGjuy72L1Vl1BrE2PlxykKZ-WvyOeHp9w52g7TOzZL2Do1sBMYPk691Bk9xkQ/s640/P1060018.JPG" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="438" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLBgYM3Pm-JgmNk5Y8986LVGkS3C37b0q3dD5daNfPhaWQx_AS3EeNoUnYW6-aMp8H2wrAprpyBExQWnbEd23mZFEh8DknQxaYHIdfHOyjXXTJTqclT1Z3TX_itmEeTbIhubp9V4htSE/s1600/P1060019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLBgYM3Pm-JgmNk5Y8986LVGkS3C37b0q3dD5daNfPhaWQx_AS3EeNoUnYW6-aMp8H2wrAprpyBExQWnbEd23mZFEh8DknQxaYHIdfHOyjXXTJTqclT1Z3TX_itmEeTbIhubp9V4htSE/s640/P1060019.JPG" width="299" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Inside out</b>: power mesh half lining</td></tr>
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">I did my usual neckline/armhole finishing using my right angle binder, I took some photos right after binding this time so you can see what it looks like before being turning to the inside and topstitched. Depending on how much the strips get stretched when applying the binding, the fabric may look pretty puckered, but it usually turns out okay once it's on the body. I always do a test run to see if the fabric will behave in the binder, some fabrics are just too thick or stretchy for it. </div></div></div></div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix_y1hpn1VItkHT6iyLXD5x7r-0KEQtaKkDKoZwIQb7TY7cKFPhW_yyY9EIl-V5QoOQeDRLxYzj9k5gsbpkKNZ20_ewsS8HJ8owEKLuQIXdRy0WZM1tXv9wtlubgeGVvopmN8rVcxhVRM/s1600/Export2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix_y1hpn1VItkHT6iyLXD5x7r-0KEQtaKkDKoZwIQb7TY7cKFPhW_yyY9EIl-V5QoOQeDRLxYzj9k5gsbpkKNZ20_ewsS8HJ8owEKLuQIXdRy0WZM1tXv9wtlubgeGVvopmN8rVcxhVRM/s640/Export2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Top</b>: after binding <b>Bottom</b>: after topstitching binding to inside</td></tr>
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"> This is what the top of the dress looks like laying down, not too hot, right? But when worn everything stretches out flat and those openings are nice and stable. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHzP-nzFFzFcc5aBC1Cvo4u5-Dx1O_winMzQuLD8RWXN9M5dynT6-5B6w2Za3AuhUTkMfN9SU6nCQWpW_B5BwWXgGl_WAuZIYo_nwH5MENVYv7IN05TirYCS6aT36fKHPjpAi_ZGNvxiQ/s1600/P1060025.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHzP-nzFFzFcc5aBC1Cvo4u5-Dx1O_winMzQuLD8RWXN9M5dynT6-5B6w2Za3AuhUTkMfN9SU6nCQWpW_B5BwWXgGl_WAuZIYo_nwH5MENVYv7IN05TirYCS6aT36fKHPjpAi_ZGNvxiQ/s640/P1060025.JPG" style="clear: both; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;">I spent about 8 hrs total on this, which would have been way faster with a full pattern but I do like the flexibility of the tweaking process. Having a dressform to work on is a huge help when trying to picture proportions and lengths. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://picasa.google.com/blogger/" target="ext"><img align="middle" alt="Posted by Picasa" border="0" src="http://photos1.blogger.com/pbp.gif" style="background: none repeat scroll 0% 50% transparent; border: 0px none; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-25155510675054679852011-05-09T12:14:00.000-07:002011-05-09T12:56:01.844-07:00Yes I am a silk snobI tried on this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Mossimo-Womens-Raceback-Henley-Tank/dp/B004DVX3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=apparel&qid=1304963405&sr=8-1">henley tank</a> in Target the other day and loved the shape, but not the fabric. It was polyester and already clinging to me in the dressing room. Fortunately I've got a nice stash of silk prints, including this Cynthia Steffe print from <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/index.htm">Emma One Sock</a> a few years ago.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFTWxitxd1T5x_uP43XpZBjIUgbTxxElnJu1JadOatGDu5kBRwD0fjPozWtn1UpVGO7JyCV3JMDMUigp1OwyA1wZgxz9GhPGjr-5QMe6DxFPwoyITlZqdxHWEWeBm2DxzlgXTFy7_BZF0/s1600/silk_auberginesalmon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFTWxitxd1T5x_uP43XpZBjIUgbTxxElnJu1JadOatGDu5kBRwD0fjPozWtn1UpVGO7JyCV3JMDMUigp1OwyA1wZgxz9GhPGjr-5QMe6DxFPwoyITlZqdxHWEWeBm2DxzlgXTFy7_BZF0/s400/silk_auberginesalmon.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>I used some old poly to drape the shape on my dressform, cutting and pinning until I was happy with the neckline, armholes, and width. Then I took it apart, traced the pieces onto butcher paper with my tracing wheel, and balanced the pattern so both sides would match. I added seam and hem allowances and the pattern was ready to go.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhey4nhgEw9VarhreEnvuA5oqLQfuQfuBmqooSfXneHbSUDM2VX-_HSi5sNZoql-k0t7LjQQBSRxsiaBa4XyCYn1W8Roafb3c4ZEhB-Kn4uR5ywtmwOsvEaKmW1EknLP5E1HDW45N2sjuQ/s1600/Picasa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhey4nhgEw9VarhreEnvuA5oqLQfuQfuBmqooSfXneHbSUDM2VX-_HSi5sNZoql-k0t7LjQQBSRxsiaBa4XyCYn1W8Roafb3c4ZEhB-Kn4uR5ywtmwOsvEaKmW1EknLP5E1HDW45N2sjuQ/s400/Picasa.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I used my favorite neckline/armhole binding technique, applied with my industrial right angle double-fold clean finish binder, then turned to the inside and topstitched. I chose not to staystitch the armholes, but ended up handling the fabric more than I usually do so I got some stretching in that area. It's not horrible but usually this binding technique lies perfectly flat or even hugs the body, and it's standing away a bit in the armholes. Lesson #1: Always stabilize bias areas shortly after cutting to preserve the shape.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZKR9bAw4e1d8pUy61BAw_DhW431rpsreI-6v0FA6KPn-uZS8W4caJzIu-023pGQYIBN3Yn-xY1CPVJ8KLk3d9ys_0mu467nvKuhGhKW-sOvnJYdyChMLVg2EPX-Ho5x69Iv7sKVHSOE/s1600/P1050956-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZKR9bAw4e1d8pUy61BAw_DhW431rpsreI-6v0FA6KPn-uZS8W4caJzIu-023pGQYIBN3Yn-xY1CPVJ8KLk3d9ys_0mu467nvKuhGhKW-sOvnJYdyChMLVg2EPX-Ho5x69Iv7sKVHSOE/s400/P1050956-1.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzeBugHXfaKYj4El8lD-UL2tax_AKAT3U9lgx9oUwtON7H8GJWBQGfd3qgMgkEFAXNmMGD5g2uug09xTi3hYaug4q8QsB0m-_hMTwwfSeQU_0d6pbAbAVZBg9a1AlINHyMGVqyhH_c7Q/s1600/Picasa1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvzeBugHXfaKYj4El8lD-UL2tax_AKAT3U9lgx9oUwtON7H8GJWBQGfd3qgMgkEFAXNmMGD5g2uug09xTi3hYaug4q8QsB0m-_hMTwwfSeQU_0d6pbAbAVZBg9a1AlINHyMGVqyhH_c7Q/s400/Picasa1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
I used this <a href="http://rustybobbin.com/inklings/archives/000353.html">method</a> to make the neckline placket, I had used it before on the sleeves of one of DH's shirts and found it simple. Not quite as accurate as I'd like, and I had issues with the dimensions given for the strip. (I used a 2 inch strip to begin with). One of these days I need to try two-piece plackets. Also, I only used interfacing on 1/2 the strip, I was worried about making the placket too stiff in this lightweight silk. However this wasn't enough stabilization, the buttonholes distorted the strip a bit. I used the lightest weight interfacing I had, and it probably would have been fine interfacing the whole strip. Lesson #2: Always stabilize openings.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLasbIT-Dm2osStwCxvheK5uF9S0N9G5lxQUbZMHKa47hZ6C29PMHpvgQxgcooygrg8PJa0zq9k6tfeKQERUSHg-stFu6PmfnYlE8nabXjKZ736gEpxfHRFL9LcGSm8irYUC13wjyEcR4/s1600/P1050958-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLasbIT-Dm2osStwCxvheK5uF9S0N9G5lxQUbZMHKa47hZ6C29PMHpvgQxgcooygrg8PJa0zq9k6tfeKQERUSHg-stFu6PmfnYlE8nabXjKZ736gEpxfHRFL9LcGSm8irYUC13wjyEcR4/s400/P1050958-1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I used an industrial wire hemmer attachment to turn the 3/16" hem, I haven't perfected my technique with it yet but it's passable and so much faster than any other method that I just keep trying to do better each time. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlvMMvRIwhLdwO3zgTKOy5LWWofHBZdVWQIFlPIM5HeVVOZqFKV1wWrppaJblKA1dSaNLul9MSL3mnpS15FtBue3DMvOY_6wYA8Qins8YuI1bNFmUsdT5cUtAovVUfiFuM3iS_a7_dlw/s1600/P1050961-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlvMMvRIwhLdwO3zgTKOy5LWWofHBZdVWQIFlPIM5HeVVOZqFKV1wWrppaJblKA1dSaNLul9MSL3mnpS15FtBue3DMvOY_6wYA8Qins8YuI1bNFmUsdT5cUtAovVUfiFuM3iS_a7_dlw/s400/P1050961-1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Even with the issues listed, I still love the tank and will get a lot of use out of it this summer. It's a great shape and length to go with skinny pants and jeans.<br />
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Here is the construction order (all done on Juki industrial straight stitch):<br />
<ol><li>French seam one shoulder seam.</li>
<li>Bind sewn armhole and neckline. (right angle binder)</li>
<li>French seam other shoulder seam. (on Janome machine to avoid taking binder off Juki)</li>
<li>Bind other armhole</li>
<li> French seam side seams.</li>
<li>Hem (3/6" wire hemmer)</li>
<li>Turn in and press neckline/armhole binding, topstitch.</li>
<li>Mark and cut slit for placket</li>
<li>Sew placket strip to opening, press into shape and topstich.</li>
<li>Buttonholes (Janome)</li>
<li>Buttons (Janome)</li>
</ol>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-57164675579083283562010-03-09T17:21:00.000-08:002010-03-09T17:23:33.636-08:00Leather Wrap BeltI have been sewing on and off, but as you can see I haven't been blogging about it. This is one of my more recent projects, after seeing this belt in a boutique on vacation I was inspired to go home and recreate it. They wanted ~$200 for it in store, and I immediately thought of this piece of red leather I stashed at the PR weekend in LA that was sitting on my fabric shelf.<br />
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I'm not going to post any kind of tutorial, it's a small designer and if you're interested in purchasing one you can read about the company <a href="http://sheilaelaine.com/">here</a>. There's not a lot of pictures online either, I did this mostly from memory since I didn't take pictures in the store. If you have a chance to check one out instore, do it! It's a great design, although not something I've never seen before. It's easy enough to figure out. There are velcro closures on the inside so it's continuously adjustable through about 5 inches of waist measurement. <br />
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This was my first time sewing leather, and honestly it was a breeze on my industrial. This is a lighter weight leather (lambskin I think) and it handled it just fine. I broke one 90 needle when sewing through the velcro, but the rest was easy, and I sewed the lining to the leather with a sz 70 needle. They make special leather point needles, but the regular/sharp point worked just fine. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-iarjHabFXPELziN3YpXjivrmAJwdOHmqS7e74AdSaf24PcGXfjlLL3W9IzmEkXIj-uLTz_X_lAg_WZEUdAv96ulR7-Q9RteLIx1rXpvZESqcrYLbIaabbU1HuVZJX2-h6Ur8k0a-FI/s1600-h/DSCN2965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-iarjHabFXPELziN3YpXjivrmAJwdOHmqS7e74AdSaf24PcGXfjlLL3W9IzmEkXIj-uLTz_X_lAg_WZEUdAv96ulR7-Q9RteLIx1rXpvZESqcrYLbIaabbU1HuVZJX2-h6Ur8k0a-FI/s320/DSCN2965.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOROoqq5cbOG2BIgGhDJBtu_gJ3BV07wXURMIqA-xcu_1G-KOkNJ8OL2nCBJf3gSLRK-NQIkPKf1gwDJ_eCqIGf4z1UWORvLTUYBcaQGEcRc4Anu7UL1OLCwn0yAvAeqqx66Iv4JuU328/s1600-h/DSCN2963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOROoqq5cbOG2BIgGhDJBtu_gJ3BV07wXURMIqA-xcu_1G-KOkNJ8OL2nCBJf3gSLRK-NQIkPKf1gwDJ_eCqIGf4z1UWORvLTUYBcaQGEcRc4Anu7UL1OLCwn0yAvAeqqx66Iv4JuU328/s320/DSCN2963.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6h2JsMhD_q3jzGQBl1cxAEnF5W04BZ9rg-9yejX1-T7UDgE-jbqJipTi2JMhVKaqvGxvxKpgHU_LNRbdtkUcRVD11MqGViHyOZ89GNzR6MjDzI2K5VTKcNDbjXrj5mNeBDDNfDwb6Brk/s1600-h/DSCN2961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6h2JsMhD_q3jzGQBl1cxAEnF5W04BZ9rg-9yejX1-T7UDgE-jbqJipTi2JMhVKaqvGxvxKpgHU_LNRbdtkUcRVD11MqGViHyOZ89GNzR6MjDzI2K5VTKcNDbjXrj5mNeBDDNfDwb6Brk/s320/DSCN2961.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_7Fviv60UgpFDXpFgk4aesf0hIOx5Gwx2jCPbWT2cK8vb5qJQZspmZKFBGjRtd-gtM33WeThU_hSUWvk0CjKkNZFGCy71MXrP6YTgrMxXQFAw9msrXn5le_GET-XH9ICU4AtVWMCzvE/s1600-h/DSCN2962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_7Fviv60UgpFDXpFgk4aesf0hIOx5Gwx2jCPbWT2cK8vb5qJQZspmZKFBGjRtd-gtM33WeThU_hSUWvk0CjKkNZFGCy71MXrP6YTgrMxXQFAw9msrXn5le_GET-XH9ICU4AtVWMCzvE/s320/DSCN2962.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fJL53k86UiQClAmlLW9EYXGFSvX6h2EmsW6O6cxRItgdIAT8RTLkOJhpxJIggCCsPrwPAxTM1zd5JDAG9csFKPiJQouZUpE1CihcYHttWQ0GUmigtENIgf_LFKz3wRx4Ovzcr4nLCK4/s1600-h/IMG_0891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-66484887699364477442009-09-17T06:30:00.000-07:002009-09-17T06:30:32.494-07:00Iterations and binding techniquesI made another DVF <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2008/10/dvf-julian-knockoff.html">Julian</a> a few weeks ago and already wore it to work, I was making this pattern for a friend of mine and while I had it out decided to cut one for myself. This fabric is a rayon/lycra print from <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/index.htm">Emma One Sock</a>, my favorite fabric dealer, er, I mean supplier. :-)<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Rayon/lycra 'leafy stalks' print in blue, black, and brown on cream</span></div><a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2755-1-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2755-1-1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 1022px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 471px;" /></a><a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2757-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2757-1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 1022px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 517px;" /></a><br />
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For this fabric I chose to finish the edges by serging 1/4" clear elastic to the neckline and front edges in one pass, then turning to the inside and topstitching. I use a special elasticator foot for my serger, which helps guide the elastic exactly on the seamline and has a tension screw to set how much I want the elastic stretched while it's being serged. Around the neckline I want enough stretch so the fabric puckers a bit when laying flat, when worn wrapped and tied it flattens out and prevents any gaping. When I get to the front edges of the skirt, I undo the tension on the elastic so it doesn't pucker.<br />
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<a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2758-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2758-1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 768px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 1024px;" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">The serged elastic provides a nice edge for turning under, it's super easy to get a 1/4" fold.</span></div><a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2759-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2759-1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 768px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 1024px;" /></a><br />
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The dress I made for my friend is the same pattern, but I added some fun details: fake pockets, shoulder tabs, and buttons. Look <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2009/06/unfinished-project-and-swayback.html">familiar</a>? She liked it so much I found some poly/rayon/lycra doubleknit that would look similar to the wool. She chose silver-tone metal buttons for hers.<br />
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<a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2784.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2784.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 1023px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 562px;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2785.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2785.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 1024px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 726px;" /></a><br />
For this fabric, I chose to use double fold binding, as far as I can tell it's exactly what DVF uses to finish the edges of her dresses. It's the same thing as bias binding, except it's done with a clean finish double fold <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-DOUBLE-FOLD-BINDER-1_W0QQitemZ390049463494QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad0c27cc6&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116">binder</a> for an industrial machine, and you don't preform the fabric. The binder I have takes a 1" strip of fabric, and forms a 1/4" binding. It's designed for light-medium weight fabrics, so when this doubleknit passes through it stretches it a bit, which accomplishes the same thing as stretching the elastic. I use crossgrain strips of fabric, and on the first pass bind the raw edge. Then I turn the whole thing, so the binding is completely on the inside, and topstitch. This edge is very stable and durable.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Industrial binder, it wraps a strip of fabric around a raw edge, making a clean finish.</span></div><a href="http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/2/7/5/3/3/6/webimg/261791029_o.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/2/7/5/3/3/6/webimg/261791029_o.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 353px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 388px;" /></a><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Lying flat, the front also looks slightly puckered, which is a good thing. </span></div><a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2787.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2787.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 1024px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 768px;" /></a><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">This binding also provides a nice edge for turning under, and I usually topstitch from the inside to make sure I'm catching the binding. Make sure your stitch looks nice from the wrong side though, you may have to loosen up the top tension to be sure the thread is pulled into the fabric.</span></div><a href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2786.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2786.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 768px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 1024px;" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-74864053496149411902009-09-16T08:30:00.000-07:002009-09-16T09:05:28.230-07:00Simplicity maxi dressI'm still trying to get caught up with recent projects, this last weekend was quite productive so I'm starting there. :-) I've been wanting a maxi dress for at least 2 years now but never got around to buying/making one. After seeing <a href="http://missceliespants.com/2008/07/05/miracles-do-happen/">Cidell's</a> version of this Simplicity pattern (<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1886-misses-special-occasion-dresses.aspx">3503</a>) I knew I had to make it up. I recently cleaned and reorganized my sewing room (need to take some pics of that too!) and went through all my fabric, and found a small piece of brown silk jersey, and a larger cut of a DVF brown/cream silk jersey print I bought at Britex in San Francisco with my sister that would be perfect for it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Simplicitymaxidress2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 640px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Simplicitymaxidress2.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I made the halter neck, long version, mostly in a size 8 but I had to make a lot of adjustments. I made a muslin first, and from that made the following:<br /><br />-Narrowed the top back piece by 1/2" on each side (making it less than a size 6!)<br />-Narrowed the back band by the same amount<br />-Removed 3/4" from the bottom of the top back piece at the CB, tapering to nothing at the side seams<br />-Removed 1/2" from the back skirt at each side seam<br />-Narrowed the neckline and armholes by 1/8" on the lining pieces<br />-Added a top back lining, used wider elastic in the back and sewed a seam between the fabric and lining for a casing<br />-Raised the pockets by 1" (they were oddly low)<br />-Added bra cups inside the lining<br />-Darted the lining instead of gathering like the outer fabric<br />-Interfaced all the solid top pieces of brown silk jersey with <a href="http://www.sewexciting.blogspot.com/">pro-sheer elegance</a> from Sew Exciting<br /><br />I wasn't planning on fully interfacing the top, but after fusing a test piece I was loving the way it looked. It just made it look expensive. LOL<br /><br />I made some changes to the construction order, in general I sewed all the front pieces together, then all the back pieces, and finally joined them at the side seams. This made it easier to adjust the side seams in one go if I needed to. Once I was happy with the top, I serged the skirt on following the instructions. I understitched the lining around the neckline and armholes to keep it from peeking out.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Simplicitymaxidress1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 640px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Simplicitymaxidress1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />I didn't have enough brown silk jersey to do a self lining, and I also didn't have any thin foam bra cups in my stash. I solved both these problems by buying a clearance dress at Ross for $11, it was made of a decent quality poly and had bra cups in it. I cut it apart, and got almost a couple yards of fabric from the skirt, and some great bra cups. Sometimes the fabric store is not the only place to get supplies!<br /><br />And finally, I have to thank DH for pinning the hem for me. I was having a hard time getting it just above the floor, so I talked him into helping me. I had to stand there for close to a half an hour, but boy is it even! He did a good job. :-) I did my usual not-so-blind hem finish on the serger.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2802.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2802.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-71689950970301557672009-09-15T07:52:00.001-07:002009-09-15T09:18:50.013-07:00Can you handle another Simplicity cardiwrap?Jumping on the bandwagon, I decided to make a cardiwrap from some Carolina Herrera heavyweight viscose sweater knit I got from <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/">Emma One Sock</a>. I bought this fabric back in February, with some type of wrap in mind so after seeing all the great versions lately (love <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/2009/08/call-me-cozy-convert.html">Christina's</a>!) I decided it was time to cut into it. This fabric is super drapey, medium-heavyweight, with a distinct knit stitch to it, and a nice sheen to the ivory color. I made a muslin from some thin rayon jersey first, and decided it would work with the weight of this fabric. What I didn't think about was the slippery-ness of it! It is so fluid and smooth when I throw it over my shoulder it falls right off. LOL Fortunately it will hold a knot, so I can tie it in the front or tie the two corners together and put it behind my neck (forgot to take a pic of that one). But my favorites for this fabric are definitely loose as is and with a belt.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Cardiwrap-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 640px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Cardiwrap-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I think this pattern (<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1560-misses-tops.aspx">Simplicity 2603</a>) is great for the overall stylelines, the shape of the front pieces and the gathered neckline are fantastic. However when I was comparing the sleeve and armhole shapes to my TNT self drafted patterns for my knit wrap dresses, the Simplicity pieces were terrible. The sleeve cap was way too short and had way too much ease. I prefer a higher cap with stable knits, I think it lays better. I used a size XS here because, surprise, Simplicity had an inch or so of ease in the bust for a KNIT pattern. I usually use negative ease for knits, and I wanted it to fit snugly, so I sized down. I completely scrapped their sleeve pattern, and traced my own armhole onto the Simplicity pieces. I had to add to the back neckline seam to get all the seamlines to match up, but the shoulder seams were already pretty close to the right length so it wasn't too hard. I also made a full-length sleeve, it hangs to about the top of my thumb. It's so much easier to take pics on the dressform, but my shoulders are actually a tad wider and it looks better with the arm filled out. This is view C, the shorter length front.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2773.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 562px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2773.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />I had a hard time trying to figure out how to finish the raw edges, most people have been making this from jerseys that can be left raw as they don't fray. This fabric doesn't necessarily fray, but it does get a bit fuzzy looking, especially after being tied and stretched. I experimented with a bunch of finishes, including several on my serger. All of them were giving me a lettuce edge effect which I didn't want for this. Finally I tried a shell stitch on my sewing machine, and it looked great and had the elasticity and recovery I needed. I was practicing on scraps first, and was a little worried that it would look old-fashioned on the actual garment, but I just love how it looks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2774.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2774.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2780.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2780.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />I think it adds something very special to an amazing fabric and a great style. It was easy to do as well, I used my blind hem foot to help me turn under an accurate 1/4" of fabric as I went, no pressing involved. I did all the edges before putting it together, I would definitely recommend this as it's much easier to do before you construct the neckline. The hems can be done after you serge the side seams. I also set the sleeves in flat, and stitched in the ditch at the neckline to secure the neck piece and cover the elastic.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2782.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2782.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Oh and want a tip for using a decorative stitch, or any stitch really, on a hem? Before you try to stitch over those side seams, trim off a little bit of the seam allowance, fold it under and press with your iron, then take a hammer and pound it flat. Yes a hammer. I believe they sell 'sewing hammers' made of plastic, but I use a regular old hammer and it works just fine. You want to get the bulky side seam as flat as possible to make it easier for your machine to pass over the area, and believe me a hammer does a much better job than your iron. Try it. But watch your fingers. Not that I've ever whacked mine while trying to hold the fabric in place. :-) I forget where I heard this tip, but it was probably at <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tools_and_supplies/">Fashion Incubator</a>. Thanks Kathleen.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-26036606627373958342009-08-25T10:33:00.000-07:002009-08-25T11:31:43.041-07:00A dress form and much-needed tank topsI'm super excited about my latest craiglist acquisition, a <a href="http://www.dressriteforms.com/files/Industrial_Form_-_Female.pdf">Dress Rite</a> professional dress form. I just picked her up last Thursday, for a great price and in almost new condition. She has collapsible shoulders, linen covering, thick padding, and is on a sturdy wheeled frame with fully adjustable height. I've had so much fun playing with her this weekend, draping fabric is a breeze on a form, and combining outfits is so much easier. It gives you a very objective look at whatever you are working on. She's a little smaller than me in the waist and hip, so I'll probably try a bit of padding if I want to use it strictly for my own garments. The shoulders and bust are actually really close, it was weird to see my own clothes on her! No name yet, but I am up for suggestions from the blog world. :-)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8c28CwNuKu7ukToz1kgug7h_8RuvYO2bLUas7jzFG3g4UjZBKpsa9WUbquC1UpYLt23q51f0CeZl0_bPnpY1-AyAR98odSbLj-RfOye87QyMJaMrNxJlS3qv-GUEtD4hvZ-Ud-Y-bLKs/s1600-h/Dress+form.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8c28CwNuKu7ukToz1kgug7h_8RuvYO2bLUas7jzFG3g4UjZBKpsa9WUbquC1UpYLt23q51f0CeZl0_bPnpY1-AyAR98odSbLj-RfOye87QyMJaMrNxJlS3qv-GUEtD4hvZ-Ud-Y-bLKs/s400/Dress+form.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373961950919810418" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I've been trying to replace worn items in my closet, and of the 5 favorite tanks I have 3 of them have holes. I made a copy of the pattern (from RTW), which was super easy as its the same thing front and back. Of course the fit isn't 'perfect', but as long as you use a stretch knit it's fine. And the added benefit is you can craft two different necklines, and just wear it whichever way you are feeling that day. I like to make a higher and a lower one on the same top.<br /><br />The first one I made is from a black bamboo rayon/lycra from<a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/"> Stonemountain Fabrics</a> in Berkeley. I was inspired by this <a href="http://images.jcrew.com/erez4/erez?src=images/onFigure/18/18073/18073_NA5998_m.tif&tmp=prdDtIm">tank</a> from J.Crew and decided to make my own. I cut 5/8" strips of fabric, gathered them using elastic thread in the bobbin, and sewed them to the tank spaced 1" apart. Knits don't fray so you don't have to finish them any other way. Then I bound the neckline and armholes using more strips (1 1/4"), sewing them right sides together while stretching the strip a bit, folding the strip to the inside, and topstitching from the right side catching the raw edge of the strip. I trimmed away the excess strip on the inside. This isn't my favorite way of doing binding but it works. I did all this on my home machine. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTnJJ-w_WL7SZX3FKmFdpWhcSVr7iJvd0XmzR3Ca8dbFBIEcP1_8sCESP4xri40OaxJG4XsuKTygOyMqrLqufUEszkmEf8bw1eOLHpW4p9DuibqRvovUh2fd8GWv0gD4EnvSIu5HjtLg/s1600-h/Tank+tops2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRTnJJ-w_WL7SZX3FKmFdpWhcSVr7iJvd0XmzR3Ca8dbFBIEcP1_8sCESP4xri40OaxJG4XsuKTygOyMqrLqufUEszkmEf8bw1eOLHpW4p9DuibqRvovUh2fd8GWv0gD4EnvSIu5HjtLg/s400/Tank+tops2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373969326024378594" border="0" /></a>And I made another top from this same pattern, from some silk jersey I purchased in Portland at PR weekend. For this one I did the binding differently, this is my preferred method and the one I use on my wrap dresses. I use an industrial double fold binder that takes a 1" strip of fabric and creates a 1/4" binding along the edge. Then I turn the whole thing inside and topstitch. This was all done on my industrial machine. I really need to get around to doing a tutorial on this method. Maybe this weekend. :-)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsfBkvqbeJ_vDpFE_fFSvtGeJjzGnU0e4hE4OWtG6Z8fvvDknvYNGd7RT3_X1uFLqbUMFIwAUwbZwgjU63qwfOM7lJGMmhAUfi8W_vFmNLZHMTnH0TZSLV94taUYuux2qeqAAcowpi2zo/s1600-h/Tank+tops.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsfBkvqbeJ_vDpFE_fFSvtGeJjzGnU0e4hE4OWtG6Z8fvvDknvYNGd7RT3_X1uFLqbUMFIwAUwbZwgjU63qwfOM7lJGMmhAUfi8W_vFmNLZHMTnH0TZSLV94taUYuux2qeqAAcowpi2zo/s400/Tank+tops.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373969325351985458" border="0" /></a>For hemming knits lately I've been super lazy and using my blind stitch foot on my serger. It's incredibly quick, and if you're not too picky about how invisible it is you don't have to mess with adjusting the foot to get it perfect. I have it set for doing thicker doubleknits, and on these thinner ones the thread is visible from the right side, but it's even and looks better than a topstitched hem.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-1IvWJfX-s7QllqfNPs1MxxdaEreLfjRW5QPQ09aWcuAebqiyswm31WlkKQs8FylsgXJOcJzi8Uwfgrqm-vl1ZVH5RaRVEOdV9cjDs-HbG__Oz-psxQEBsIqVQMqf5Gy6Ak10nbbl5E/s1600-h/Tank+tops1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-1IvWJfX-s7QllqfNPs1MxxdaEreLfjRW5QPQ09aWcuAebqiyswm31WlkKQs8FylsgXJOcJzi8Uwfgrqm-vl1ZVH5RaRVEOdV9cjDs-HbG__Oz-psxQEBsIqVQMqf5Gy6Ak10nbbl5E/s400/Tank+tops1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373969338192963586" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-62970627561096595362009-07-25T09:20:00.001-07:002009-07-25T09:49:40.768-07:00Back from vacation!Just a quick update in case you were wondering where I was. First was the wedding we went to in Burlingame, CA at the Kohl Mansion, which was beautiful, gorgeous, and amazing. I was even able to snap some photos of my husband wearing his wool trousers I made for him. The cleaners did a fantastic job on my dress, the water stain came out and the pressing was amazing. However, I managed to get another stain on it at this wedding, so it's back at the cleaners now, hopefully they can work their magic again.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqzSJOfMmkNOPgGI91LNSXRwFJv64P-YDIsbs_8f2EWfTPqm_Q2KhQmjbBQHI8Onn-taAD891rQfJ1rRMn3PEb7QLveK9NbqEnYmxjsrGP4Zu8Cf1uueIAYXtETjL3VZbk9-MabLz-bk/s1600-h/Jodi+and+Shane%27s+wedding1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqzSJOfMmkNOPgGI91LNSXRwFJv64P-YDIsbs_8f2EWfTPqm_Q2KhQmjbBQHI8Onn-taAD891rQfJ1rRMn3PEb7QLveK9NbqEnYmxjsrGP4Zu8Cf1uueIAYXtETjL3VZbk9-MabLz-bk/s400/Jodi+and+Shane%27s+wedding1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362439395138784226" border="0" /></a><br />Kwik Sew <a href="http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3267&QL=MenPantsShorts">3267</a>, in lightweight wool fully underlined in silk charmeuse. He hates back pockets, so I made single welts then sewed them shut and left off the pocket bags, and sewed on some buttons.<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMK3gJVTD4c4_Xw9AqRpu9A95KUzPXC67UgQzNIkwJWp51yV6yFc4fbxLsPzzsm4xI610R-uPl1D8bdJCHSZdIgVHmK5wQ9H8anIsqbjxSHaqxYRj7_zWxFxk5mAklNaKLdGCOcZyimow/s1600-h/Jodi+and+Shane%27s+wedding.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMK3gJVTD4c4_Xw9AqRpu9A95KUzPXC67UgQzNIkwJWp51yV6yFc4fbxLsPzzsm4xI610R-uPl1D8bdJCHSZdIgVHmK5wQ9H8anIsqbjxSHaqxYRj7_zWxFxk5mAklNaKLdGCOcZyimow/s400/Jodi+and+Shane%27s+wedding.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362439402808817346" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Then we left for a week long camping trip in northern Idaho with my husband's family. We camped in a tent trailer, rode quads, went tubing down the river, and just relaxed for a week. Minus the 30 or so mosquito bites, it was fantastic. Bonnie, our german shepherd, thoroughly enjoyed herself.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5dqDdwgiUroKYM5t-LShfdn-5itM3oEtqa4WF62qdi0g4pqw0p9qr_OWnWjpra26xAwGiGkWtLa39SAQyW-sVIpQC8FqTHCna_IhaU9gJVNmTpm8MMDK3DAQJGkApRrdRXf87eoJ57N4/s1600-h/Idaho+camping+July+2009.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5dqDdwgiUroKYM5t-LShfdn-5itM3oEtqa4WF62qdi0g4pqw0p9qr_OWnWjpra26xAwGiGkWtLa39SAQyW-sVIpQC8FqTHCna_IhaU9gJVNmTpm8MMDK3DAQJGkApRrdRXf87eoJ57N4/s400/Idaho+camping+July+2009.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362439385177823794" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">********************************<br /><div style="text-align: left;">And finally, Vogue put a bunch of patterns on clearance for $5, including this <a href="http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2981.htm?tab=clearance&page=1">pants pattern</a>. Look <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2008/12/vogue-2981-pants.html">familiar</a>?<br /></div></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V2981.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 684px; height: 504px;" src="http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V2981.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-89889619403484414702009-07-07T13:28:00.000-07:002009-07-07T13:41:53.314-07:00Remember this dress?Well guess what, I have another wedding to go to this weekend. And I am embarrassed to say <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2008/07/just-in-time.html">this dress</a> has hung in my closet, dirty, since the wedding we went to last summer. With a crappy hem (the fabric, lining, and underlining were all double-folded up together, yikes!) and not quite perfect darts in the back. I <span style="font-style: italic;">meant</span> to fix it so I could take it to the cleaners, but it just never happened.<br /><br />Anyways, I pulled it out over the weekend and extended the darts in back, they stopped too high and there was a bubble right above the full part of my butt. I guess my ass hangs lower than I thought. Then I chopped a couple inches off the bottom, it was too long the first time, and hemmed it properly. I handstitched the fabric to the underlining, and used my rolled hem foot for the charmeuse lining. I slipstitched the lining down at the back vent and that was it.<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">It still fits! I think I've lost a few pounds from last summer but I'm happy with it.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2575-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 600px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2575-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">The hem could do with a professional pressing, and you can't really see it but I hope those water spots on the skirt come out at the cleaners! Cross your fingers.</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2574-4.jpg"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-style: italic;"></span></span></span><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 600px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2574-4.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Darts are much better now. I'll need a smoother bra but overall the fit in the back is really nice.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2579-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 600px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2579-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2577-2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 600px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2577-2.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">*****************<br /><div style="text-align: left;">Thank you all for the very nice comments about my last wrap dress! Several of you mentioned taking a horizontal dart out of the lower back that would be hidden by the belt, and that's a great idea that I may do. But right now it's July and I'm afraid that wool dress will sit in my closet until I need to pull it out again. :-)<br /></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-21436012504649455072009-07-01T13:26:00.000-07:002009-07-01T13:49:11.749-07:00Dinner at Cindy'sI've been discussing industrial machines for weeks with my friend Cindy (who I met at pattern review weekends in LA and Portland), and finally invited myself over to her house last night for dinner, machines, and sewing chat. We've been scouring craiglist for used deals, and while I decided on a Juki DDL, she wanted something that was made for heavier duty sewing. She found this Consew walking foot/needle feed combo a couple weeks ago and I think just picked it up last weekend. I got to see it in action last night through no less than 8 layers of denim, and we were both a little scared of the 'beast' after polishing off a bottle of wine.<br /><br />The walking foot is what you would imagine, a 2-piece presser foot that feeds from the top as well as using the feed dogs on the bottom. But if you've never seen a needle feed before, it's pretty cool. The entire needle bar stabs through the fabric and moves front to back, taking the fabric with it, then raises after forming the stitch, and stabs the fabric again. If there was any chance at all of fabric layer slippage, this machine would eliminate it. The previous owner had made upholstry with it, and the needles it came with were HUGE. It was hard to believe the machine could punch that monster through that much fabric but it had no trouble.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Consew walking foot/needle feed</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2529.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2529.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Cindy's other new toy is this Tacsew T-500 blindstitcher, which she's had for a few weeks now and has had more time to play with. I'd never used one before so she pressed a hem into some scrap woven for me to try and it worked great! But then we both tried to figure out what the problem was when using knits, and neither of us could get it to work. The knit gets sucked up into the area where the stitch forms after a few stitches, and then doesn't want to feed out the back and gets caught between the feed dogs. We couldn't find any adjustment for foot pressure or feed dog height, so we're stumped as to why the knits won't feed properly.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Tacsew T-500</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2528.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2528.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Cindy preparing to enjoy crock pot pasta and some excellent Merlot her husband picked out</span>. <span style="font-style: italic;">Isn't her top cute? It's a BWOF pattern she altered to look like a current J.Crew top.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2527.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2527.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Thank you Cindy for a fabulous evening and I hope we get to do it again soon!!!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-29438494839314459452009-06-23T14:12:00.001-07:002009-06-23T14:12:40.670-07:00An almost unfinished project and swaybackI started this dress last October, from some DVF wool doubleknit I purchased at <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/">Stonemountain and Daughter</a> fabrics. I had just made a <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2008/10/dvf-julian-knockoff.html">rayon knit version</a> with fabric purchased during the same trip, and was fresh off a discussion on patternreview about <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl">swayback adjustments</a>. One of the suggestions in the thread was <a href="http://www.fitthat.com/swayback.htm">this</a>, and as I was quite excited about it at the time I modified my pattern and cut out my nice DVF fabric without even testing it in muslin.<br /><br />This fix did not work for me. In the back of my mind I was wondering about forming diagonal wrinkles from the shoulder with this alteration but it seemed to work for the other ladies so I forged ahead. I still got fabric pooling in the small of my back, but I ended up with those wrinkles too. And on top of that, the original pattern I used was very plain, which looks great with print fabrics but was downright boring with a solid. I threw it into a pile for at least 3 months, tried it on again and decided it wasn't too bad to wear, and embellished it with some flap pockets, shoulder tabs, longer sleeves, and french cuffs. I wore it quite a bit during the last part of winter, and got a lot of compliments on it. 2 lessons here: always test out pattern alterations before cutting into your good fabric!; and don't be too hard on your 'wadders'. They are probably still better than RTW.<br /><br />I really like the dress from the front, the pockets/tabs and cuffs help to wake up an otherwise plain dress, and the buttons were from a stash <a href="http://missceliespants.com/">Cidell</a> sent me. (Thank you!!) I didn't have patterns for these, I just constructed them from paper until I was happy with the sizes.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhyphenhyphenp0scZpyr_biCTlKwhsoQIPyU5eTenakGBvq6guK0f3HyOotinI00zTAY9N7Qr_qrz62cFzy33UtycPpd12pJNuee0uCxo0ZRE-sq3nsf3JDX4YGjgo79lJc_lgZYehocDq0GETjzo/s1600-h/DSCN2327.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 138px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhyphenhyphenp0scZpyr_biCTlKwhsoQIPyU5eTenakGBvq6guK0f3HyOotinI00zTAY9N7Qr_qrz62cFzy33UtycPpd12pJNuee0uCxo0ZRE-sq3nsf3JDX4YGjgo79lJc_lgZYehocDq0GETjzo/s320/DSCN2327.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328296725229290930" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEAudUJM2Pinfs2svUO0DKWm0CTK_-4qhEDR0lAq0_dl3TKkWmIafnk7ps9gVThq0G3AJKvLmTCEk8mezTQrmwroGKftvn8lpER95-mqIt2xXP1IdBSBylNejSdZEMpzxLu2waJVCQEIA/s1600-h/DSCN2325-1.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 140px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEAudUJM2Pinfs2svUO0DKWm0CTK_-4qhEDR0lAq0_dl3TKkWmIafnk7ps9gVThq0G3AJKvLmTCEk8mezTQrmwroGKftvn8lpER95-mqIt2xXP1IdBSBylNejSdZEMpzxLu2waJVCQEIA/s320/DSCN2325-1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328296723067906786" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLsm11aIf0tb8K0MWsmzNscpsoXNR16PzS_x7OIGmSkDgJH7VSCh5fPEd8muixYwU6wuwxuVjVATESvHhp3rf6uwWhpSmGZxleua3mtBoLhFok_dNwKbpBF-LpDmTNHGTmeXEr1ZWHUbI/s1600-h/DSCN2321.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 170px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLsm11aIf0tb8K0MWsmzNscpsoXNR16PzS_x7OIGmSkDgJH7VSCh5fPEd8muixYwU6wuwxuVjVATESvHhp3rf6uwWhpSmGZxleua3mtBoLhFok_dNwKbpBF-LpDmTNHGTmeXEr1ZWHUbI/s320/DSCN2321.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328296724407644098" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dBnYm__9tZjRo_MZDu7cGLysyfR4uro319S0XfAlGBraHSZfzFQ0DaJ-9MitBch9FDGfN3hBPehzdgVHYmYKG71xanEaxgGvR6nfurVGLwi6cPsNpYVVBJfh4EMPUoBBDMiN_Tl8L3U/s1600-h/DSCN2330.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 318px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4dBnYm__9tZjRo_MZDu7cGLysyfR4uro319S0XfAlGBraHSZfzFQ0DaJ-9MitBch9FDGfN3hBPehzdgVHYmYKG71xanEaxgGvR6nfurVGLwi6cPsNpYVVBJfh4EMPUoBBDMiN_Tl8L3U/s320/DSCN2330.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328296724814244354" border="0" /></a><br />Here's what I don't like. The back of the print dress was pretty good, but there was definitely fabric pooling in the small of my back. The problem is too much length in the CB, not at the side seams. But with no CB or waistline seam, your options for removing it are kind of limited. The fix I tried above attempts to pull it up from the neckline, but as you can see it created diagonal wrinkles from the bottom of my armhole, in addition to not fixing the pool of fabric. I think I will go back to my old standby of darting the CB, laying it on the fold as best as you can, and taking a little out of the side seam. (Like what Marji was talking about in that thread on PR.)<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwzGOzz22n_ZeQTTcIfUs6Am2VxH22S6OqJ-MFRnu0dIYYTH2NntkhuyTP2Ev08s_FC10K86l9kOTkdqe9jvYs8klcMl5_CSBPI7FuMfBFr-LWubIHyKXLw5ECyGWYhjPz1S79r7S29ig/s1600-h/DVF+Julian.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwzGOzz22n_ZeQTTcIfUs6Am2VxH22S6OqJ-MFRnu0dIYYTH2NntkhuyTP2Ev08s_FC10K86l9kOTkdqe9jvYs8klcMl5_CSBPI7FuMfBFr-LWubIHyKXLw5ECyGWYhjPz1S79r7S29ig/s320/DVF+Julian.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5328296716850341650" border="0" /></a><br />But there's nothing wrong with using that belt to tuck some of the extra fabric under and wearing the heck out of it, right? :-)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-63716419682557510922009-06-11T11:56:00.000-07:002009-06-11T12:34:31.987-07:00DVF surgeryA friend of mine picked up this dress for me (thank you!!!) at the DVF sample sale last week in NYC, I've been dying to get a dress in this print but kept missing it when one would pop up on ebay, I think it's from Spring 08. I hadn't seen it made up into this style before, I think it was unique to the sample sale. I'm not crazy about bell sleeves, so I decided to turn them into a more traditional DVF style, 3/4 sleeves with a vented cuff.<br /><br />I already had a pattern for the cuff from my other knockoffs, so it was just a matter of cutting off the bell, narrowing the end of the sleeve, making the cuff, and attaching it.<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">Before, DVF Greer in Spring Shadows print<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2508.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 458px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2508.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">After!<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2511.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 396px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2511.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2510.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 453px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2510.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />In taking apart the bell sleeve, I did discover the method used to attach it, so I thought I'd share that in case it's helpful. The bell is faced on the inside as well, up to where it attaches to the sleeve. The very end of the sleeve is understitched, and there is a 1" section along the vertical seam on the inside that is handstitched closed. They also used 1/4" clear elastic in both horizontal seams, the end of the sleeve and the top.<br /><br />Here are the pieces:<br /><br />Outer bell piece (roughly in a trapezoid shape, long edge is the bottom of the bell)<br />Inner bell piece (same)<br />clear elastic for top and bottom seams<br /><br />Steps: (Sleeve is already attached to the dress and vertical seam serged)<br /><br /><ul><li>Stitch vertical seam of outer bell piece</li><li>Stitch vertical seam of inner bell piece, leaving 1" in the middle open</li><li>Baste clear elastic to one of the pieces at the top and the bottom of the bell (I definitely saw basting stitches in addition to the serging, but I'm not sure which piece it was on, I don't think it matters)</li><li>Stitch the inner and outer pieces together at the bottom of the bell, right sides together</li><li>Understitch</li><li>Baste the outer bell piece to the sleeve, right sides together</li><li>Turn the sleeve right side out, it should look almost done except the inside bell piece hasn't been attached to the bottom of the sleeve.</li><li>Now reach through the 1" opening you left in the vertical seam of the inner piece, and pull out the sleeve/outer bell piece (basted together), and the top of the inner bell piece that is unattached.</li><li>You need to stitch the inner bell piece to the sleeve/outer bell seam, but you'll have to sew in a circle and readjust the piece as you work, you can't expose the whole seam at once. For a really good tutorial/pictures on how to line this up see Kathleen Fasanella's <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/22692_bagging_tutorial_2/">blog post</a>. This is the same thing you do when bagging the lining in a jacket.</li><li>Stuff the seam back through the hole, and press.</li><li>Slipstich the 1" opening closed and you're done!<br /></li></ul>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-74335478935896332152009-05-26T10:08:00.007-07:002009-05-26T17:39:45.830-07:00New equipment and PR Weekend PortlandI have been busy collecting new equipment/gadgets in the last month, and as you can imagine playing with them is way more fun than blogging. No offense.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.sewinginusa.com/images/Elna-Alize-2007/alize-COL.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 211px;" src="http://www.sewinginusa.com/images/Elna-Alize-2007/alize-COL.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The first piece I need to share is this <a href="http://www.sewinginusa.com/products.asp?id=2643&cat=&gclid=CNfCs_yO25oCFRIcawodKGsm2w">Elna Aliz</a><a href="http://www.sewinginusa.com/products.asp?id=2643&cat=&gclid=CNfCs_yO25oCFRIcawodKGsm2w">e</a> ironing press. I bought mine from sewinginusa.com, they are one of the few etailers that carries Elna presses. You can't type 'ironing press' into google without hitting a million Simplicity presses, but it took some work to find the Elna. I was looking for a dry press as well, which also made it hard. Most of the presses on the market now come with steam, which means holes in the pressing surface. Tiny holes, but holes. Since I mainly planned on using it for fusing interfacing, I wanted as smooth a surface as possible. The Elna had good reviews on patternreview.com and the price was right, so I went with that.<br /><br />Features I like:<br /><br /><ul><li>10 second timer that activates when you close the lid. My favorite interfacing needs 20 seconds, so I close the lid twice and I'm done. :-)</li><li>Pressure! Lots of it. (100lbs) I'm convinced this really helps the adhesion of fusibles.</li><li>Heat! Well duh. But it advertises 392F and it definitely gets hot on high.</li><li>Sturdy, it's got locking handles to move it around and rubber feet that don't slide on the table.</li><li>Board is made of Finnish birch, so no warping. At least not yet. (All the other presses use steel mesh). I prefer the way the steam permeates through the fabric with a wood board. The metal mesh on my ironing board isn't the same.</li><li>FUSING AN ENTIRE PIECE OF INTERFACING AT ONCE! (yes you need to get one of these)<br /></li></ul>Features I don't like:<br /><br /><ul><li>It's 20"x9", and when you are fusing interfacing bigger is better. I can fit two collars, or two cuffs, but not both. it's not long enough for an entire waistband, but it really isn't too hard to move the fabric once part of it is fused. It's still light years better than using an iron. But to go bigger I would have had to get a steam model.</li><li>Not really a big deal, but having to use a spray bottle for steam. I mean you have to spray interfacing or a press cloth anyways when fusing, but when I use it to press shirts or something it does slow you down.</li><li>It came with a spray bottle, which leaked from day 1. I threw it away.</li></ul>After I had my press for a few weeks, I was reading a blog post by Kathleen Fasanella at FashionIncubator.com about <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/best-kept-secret-to-lowering-expenses/">'the annoyance factor'</a>. She was talking about how to lower your expenses by examining seemingly low cost processes, and although it's aimed towards production sewing it rang a huge bell with me. If you can save yourself even a few minutes on a task that is done repeatedly, or streamline your process to make it require less work or more enjoyable, the benefit can be a huge bump in productivity. I used to hate fusing interfacing so much I'd put it off or contemplate skipping it. Now I'm looking for the next 'bottleneck' to fix.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2428.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 671px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2428.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />After scouring Craigslist.org for a used industrial sewing machine for several months, I finally found one in San Francisco at the beginning of May for a good price. I've been picking up a lot more 'for hire' sewing projects and the allure of an industrial machine, with all it's capabilites and attachments, was too tempting. It was quite the fiasco picking it up at 6 pm on a Friday night, in the rain, lining up movers to carry it down 3 flights of stairs (one flaked, DH had to stand in. OMG), driving a full-size truck with a utility trailer through downtown SF, and unloading it into the house. Whew! But it's here. And it's awesome. :-)<br /><br />It's a Juki DDL5550N-7 computerized single needle lockstitch with a servo motor. Features:<br /><br /><ul><li>Adjustable speed servo motor, from turtle to rabbit-on-Red-Bull. (holy cow who sews that fast??)<br /></li><li>Auto thread trimmer, activated by depressing the back part of the pedal</li><li>Auto back tacking at beginning or end of a seam (or not at all)</li><li>Reverse</li><li>Knee lifter</li></ul><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2429.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2429.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Control panel. Does anyone know how to use the thingie on the right, or what the 'eye' and 'fan' buttons do? No idea. LOL </span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.sewingindustrialmachines.com/juki_2007/devices/sc500_01_files/sc500_04.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 360px; height: 180px;" src="http://www.sewingindustrialmachines.com/juki_2007/devices/sc500_01_files/sc500_04.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I've only made a couple garments with it so far but the fabric feeding is so much better than my Janome, you can adjust everything (love that), I've decided life before auto thread-trimming sucks, and you can probably buy an attachment that does your laundry and cooks dinner for you. I bought some basic feet (left and right cording, zipper, invisible zipper) and a binder so far and am hooked.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">**************************<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">So the reason for the haste in picking up the machine was the next weekend was <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/37170">PR Weekend Portland </a>and I didn't want to miss out on the deal. I had a fantastic time with the ladies of Pattern Review, and enjoyed meeting some new faces as well as spending quality time with <a href="http://missceliespants.com/">Cidell</a> and <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/">Christina</a>. I didn't take nearly enough pictures but here's a few plus some borrowed ones, as well as the fabric stash I came home with.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Fabric-Tan Burberry stripe raincoating, L-R silk charmeuse, cotton shirting, silk jersey</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/photo-115.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 600px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/photo-115.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Me, Cidell, and Christina</span><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs011.snc1/4194_759143328578_5735933_43799287_5256438_n.jpg"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 604px; height: 453px;" src="http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs011.snc1/4194_759143328578_5735933_43799287_5256438_n.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Cidell trying on my Burberry trench. Don't you hate it when other people look better in your stuff than you do?</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3628/3547768790_ab0338eac3.jpg?v=0"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 375px; height: 500px;" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3628/3547768790_ab0338eac3.jpg?v=0" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Fitting/Tailoring seminar with Pati Palmer</span><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2452.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2452.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-30593374711649835082009-05-26T10:08:00.005-07:002009-05-26T18:34:51.088-07:00Poofy skirt and twisted band teeWhat do you get when you combine lovely fabric bought with a gift certificate (thanks A.!!), a new industrial sewing machine to play with, a 4-day weekend, and plenty of sewing mojo after a trip? Finished garments. :-)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Copied from RTW top, self-drafted embroidered lawn skirt, Coclico shoes</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Collages-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 786px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/Collages-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>I knew I wanted something short and poofy with this cream embroidered cotton lawn, but didn't really have an exact pattern in mind. I decided to just make it up as I went along, only deciding on the width of the waistband and the fullness of the skirt. The pieces are all rectangles so it's not hard. I wanted the embroidery pattern on the horizontal so I had to cut the fabric on the crossgrain. Then it's just gathered to the waistband and lined, add a zipper and voila! I had to adjust the side seams on the waistband to really make it hug my waist, but that was it. The skirt and lining only have one seam, in the center back. I serged the edges, then sewed the seams and pressed open. I hemmed them before attaching the waistbands, using a scroll hemmer foot. If you don't have one of these then get one!! No pressing, no marking, just feed the fabric into the foot and get a perfect 1/4" hem (or 1/8"). It worked really really well, although I did pop the fabric out of the feeder and form the hem by hand when going over the side seams. But compared to my usual method of ironing the hem first and using two passes of stiching, this was a breeze.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">1/4" scroll-hemmed lawn and batiste lining</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2472.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2472.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Seam finishes</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2473.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2473.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2462.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 782px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2462.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I inserted the invisible zipper using my new Juki and a cording foot (the invisible zipper foot I got doesn't work very well, probably operator error).</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2464.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2464.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Lining/facing all finished by machine</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2468.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2468.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />I saw these two fabrics laying together and liked the colors, so I made another one of these tees from a taupy gray rayon/lycra knit It was copied from my favorite RTW v-neck, and I added a twisted binding to the neckline to make a little more interesting. I haven't found a favorite method for attaching this yet, this time I serged it on, folded it over and lined up the offset, and stitched in the ditch from the right side to anchor it. I also serged the raw edges of the hems, folded up and topstitched. This jersey was very flimsy, and the edges kept wanting to roll. I knew if I even attempted my usual double needle approximation of a coverstich it would tunnel like mad. <br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2478.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 608px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2478.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2477.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2477.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />A little note about the construction order though, I notice a lot of RTW tees/tops do this:<br /><ul><li>Sew one shoulder seam</li><li>Bind the neckline</li><li>Sew the other shoulder seam</li><li>Sew down the seam allowance at the neckline from sewing the last step</li><li>Set the sleeves in flat</li><li>Sew the sleeve/side seams</li><li>Hems</li></ul>Binding the neckline while it's still flat makes it easier to handle at the machine, and you also don't have to figure out exactly how long to make the binding before attaching it. I like to stretch mine slightly as I sew to make it hug the neck. You will end up with a little seam allowance on one side of the neckline, so it doesn't look quite as nice as setting in binding traditionally, but for quickie tees and tops I think it's perfectly acceptable.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-31454902017033911242009-04-23T08:28:00.000-07:002009-04-28T14:43:00.841-07:00Everything you ever wanted to know about thread<div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">I ran across this brochure put out by YLI and thought I'd share. It's a clearly written booklet about thread, including how it's made, materials, sizing and size conventions. It also has a nice overview of machine needle types, how to choose the proper needle, and a good glossary. It's not specific to YLI threads either, it also lists other brands such as Gutterman and Mettler. Enjoy!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.ylicorp.com/pdf/tot-brochure.pdf">A Thread of Truth</a><br /></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span></span></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-41585428754321946532009-04-06T17:36:00.001-07:002009-04-23T09:28:56.513-07:00And another version<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4fFwpuOQeek_duHqmHVeDdhTzVM3K-x9DgAJ6vyBEzSBu_XLW7DHi4df7qV5EVd-yBkCM9s0BIkUCOpk62Lv4ktGcDcNkbiJyn4y3CjHpeEPj7YT0wvoChc-odT5zZuCd_H7e8wBKMo/s1600-h/J.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4fFwpuOQeek_duHqmHVeDdhTzVM3K-x9DgAJ6vyBEzSBu_XLW7DHi4df7qV5EVd-yBkCM9s0BIkUCOpk62Lv4ktGcDcNkbiJyn4y3CjHpeEPj7YT0wvoChc-odT5zZuCd_H7e8wBKMo/s320/J.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5327923349391309538" border="0" /></a><br />I did end up making a dress version of the J.Crew tank, and wore it to a friend's bachelorette party. I haven't worn a hemline this short in a long time, but some very nice friends of mine convinced me I could still wear this length. :-) I wore it unbelted but took some pics with a belt, I generally don't like the look on me but maybe with a skinnier belt?<br /><br />I've got one other project I finished up (a UFO from October) that I still need to post, and I've been working on some pants for DH using this <a href="http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3267&QL=MenPantsShorts">Kwik Sew</a> pattern. They should be done this week. Happy sewing!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-52011310687945121662009-03-23T17:35:00.000-07:002009-03-23T17:55:03.569-07:00Weekend sewing updateI'm getting a little behind on posting finished projects, my sewing space has officially moved out of the kitchen and into the spare bedroom. The ability to leave my mess untouched during the week when I'm away has improved my ability to jump right back in again on the weekend, leaving less time for blogging! I have a long table now with my sewing machine and serger, the iron/board right next to that, and my dear husband has a cutting table in the works for me. I think he really just wants exclusive use of the dining table for food-related purposes. Either way, yay for dedicated sewing infrastructure!<br /><br />I bought some of this <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=6293">silk charmeuse</a> a few weeks ago without a pattern in mind, but when I saw this <a href="http://www.jcrew.com/browse/single_product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441771935&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302023901&srcCode=FRGL09">J.Crew halter top</a> I knew I had to knock it off. I used this <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2008/06/kwik-sew-3575.html">kwik sew</a> pattern as a quick jumping-off point, and one muslin later it was ready. I already want more of these, and potentially a dress length too.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2354-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 371px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2354-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2355-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 425px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2355-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2357-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 352px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2357-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />It's a halter style with a pleated front and a keyhole back, long ties form the straps and knot/tie in the back. You can adjust the neckline with the ties, or place the knot to the side if you want. Used french seams for the side seams, and self-fabric narrow bias binding turned to the inside for the armholes. The neckline is just turned and stitched down to form a casing for the tie. I made this one kind of long for tucking into low rise pants and jeans, but it would work in a shorter length untucked or much longer for a dress even.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2362-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 687px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2362-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2364-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 386px; height: 800px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2364-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2367.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 684px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2367.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2365.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 743px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2365.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2369.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 800px; height: 600px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2369.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I'm thinking of making one of these in a dress length from that <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2008/04/milly-at-hancocks.html">Milly sil</a>k I found at Hancock's! What do you think?Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-65488536389712839142009-03-10T09:28:00.001-07:002009-03-10T10:20:55.611-07:00Trench coat DONEThis project was starting to turn into the 'coat that didn't want to be finished'. I spent weeks looking for buttons, and when I finally tried to put them on 2 weeks ago my machine wouldn't make the buttonhole on the pocket flaps. It kept getting hung up on all the fabric where the flap attaches to the coat. I must have ripped out 15 tries between the two sides. Yes I did make a lot of samples, even trying to duplicate the layers, but the only time it wouldn't work was on the actual coat. I'm lucky I didn't wreck them in the process, this is some tough fabric!<br /><br />After scouring the internet for help, I decided to bid on a vintage singer <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-SINGER-PROFESSIONAL-BUTTONHOLER--CIRCA-1973_W0QQitemZ150327650302QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090219?IMSfp=TL090219132001r26480">buttonholer</a> on ebay. This one comes with 20 templates for making regular, keyhole, and bound buttonholes, plus an eyelet. It uses the zig zag stitch on your machine but moves the fabric around for you, and it had no problem with the pocket buttonhole. It doesn't look quite as nice as my Janome's keyholes, but it worked the first time. It might be an adjustment issue, but I couldn't seem to make the stitch length short enough to get a dense stitch and going around the template 3 times didn't give the same look. There's a lot of settings to play with, so I'm looking forward to seeing what other styles I can make. I used the eyelet template already on the belt buckle.<br /><br />You can see my previous work on the trench coat <a href="http://loohoooriginals.blogspot.com/2009/01/trench-coat-in-progress.html">here</a>. I didn't make any fitting changes in the real thing, although I made a few style decisions. I added another row of buttons at the bottom, after wearing it around for a week I thought it needed them. However I must have forgotton to sew on one of the bottom buttons, I had placed it with wonder tape to get the position right and it seems to have fallen off before my photo shoot! I added some more topstitching in places, and I didn't care for the button flap that closes the collar stand. On real Burberry coats there is a metal hook, I may do that.<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">All buttoned up, I placed a flatter button under the chest flap on top instead of making another buttonhole through the flap. There are 2 buttons on the inside facing.</span><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/frontbuttoned.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 473px; height: 1023px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/frontbuttoned.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">I've got the belt tied right now, I need to add eyelets and I can't decide if I want silver metal or black stitched.</span><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/side.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 442px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/side.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">The top buttons also work nicely to hold the flaps back.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/fronttopbuttoneddown.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 503px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/fronttopbuttoneddown.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I love the back vent on this one, it's not a slit so there's no drafts!</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/back.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 607px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/back.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">My 'flasher' pic.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/frontopen.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 574px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/frontopen.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I put a hanging chain in the back, sewn on with black grosgrain ribbon in the collar seam. There are raglan shoulder pads, covered by acetate lining in the sleeves only, set by hand. (Twice! I forgot to topstich the sleeves the first time.) All the seams and hems are bound with rayon seam binding. I also bar tacked the pocket bags to the facing, now they stay put instead of flopping around.<br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/insidelining.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 768px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/insidelining.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I added 1/4" topstitching to the facings, but I wasn't sure how to end it at the neckline until I looked at some photos. All the real Burberry coats turn 90 degrees where the collar joins the collar stand so that's what I did.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/closeuptopstitching.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 768px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/closeuptopstitching.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I wore it around for a week already, pardon the wrinkles! I added topstiching to the facing in between the armhole seams. This holds it well enough even though the facing is free in the armhole area.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/backhanging.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 768px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/backhanging.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I used the striped side on the underside of the pocket flaps, the collar, the chest flap, and the sleeve tabs. I didn't think of it until afterwards, but I may have preferred ivory thread in the bobbin.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/pocket.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/pocket.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This was a looooong project but I love the results. I know I will have this coat for years and I'm glad I spent the time on all the little details. This was wonderful fabric to work with and now I'm wishing I had some in tan!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-57792210504459578782009-03-05T08:31:00.000-08:002009-03-05T08:36:55.238-08:00The last seam ripper you'll ever buyMaybe Gingher doesn't know how many seam rippers I go through because that's a pretty tall claim. I'm not sure if this is a new product or not but I hadn't run across it before. It's 6 inches long and has a retractable blade.<br /><br />From Gingher's <a href="http://www.gingher.com/product/01-003779-seam-ripper-w-retractable-blade/175/">website</a>:<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Gingher's seam ripper features a razor edged cutting blade that safely retracts when not in use. The handle is ergonomically balanced to provide the user with fine cutting control in numerous positions. This tool is beautifully finished with chrome over nickel and comes in its own storage box. With proper use and care, the blade should last a lifetime and is covered by Gingher's guarantee.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.gingher.com/products/g_175.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 500px; height: 119px;" src="http://www.gingher.com/products/g_175.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />It runs about $25 from several stores online and there are a few on ebay too. I've probably spent at least that much on cheapy plastic ones, and I toss them pretty regularly because there's not much I hate more than a dull seam ripper.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-3315830750388640892009-02-16T14:51:00.000-08:002009-02-16T15:15:38.772-08:00Kreativ Blogger<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswOlyg8vh23rNoo3-gsdSCB7E3Smw5uCUTs8kiPyBrMLb6Urij_rnx8-PU9I0DlwdjgXeaKsgZEIVm85SAN0ATqYTd3R9s5IIn0YdaaHXB35nGADcNoi0KUymDR9oIdLDmQDMuGBxRqM/s1600/kreativblogger"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswOlyg8vh23rNoo3-gsdSCB7E3Smw5uCUTs8kiPyBrMLb6Urij_rnx8-PU9I0DlwdjgXeaKsgZEIVm85SAN0ATqYTd3R9s5IIn0YdaaHXB35nGADcNoi0KUymDR9oIdLDmQDMuGBxRqM/s1600/kreativblogger" alt="" border="0" /></a>It's a good thing this award is called 'Kreativ' and not 'Frequent' or I'd never get it. Thanks to <a href="http://annsthreads.blogspot.com/">Ann Smith</a> and <a href="http://www.sewuptight.blogspot.com/">Sewuptight</a> for nominating me, sorry it took so long for me to acknowledge the honor!<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;">**************************<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I finally finished up my sewing for hire projects a couple weeks ago and breathed a huge sigh of relief. I made 17 dresses in January, and 5 more in November/December from the same design, in 4 different sizes and 4 colors. I ended up customizing almost all of them, either different hem lengths or morphed sizes. Everyone has been thrilled with them so far, but I'm a little sewed out and my shoulder/elbow is still recovering from all the pressing! But I somehow managed to eek out one for myself after I finished all of them, this is the navy color. The fabric is organic merino interlock from <a href="http://www.nearseanaturals.com/item.php?id=1469">Near Sea Naturals</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/shawnessy3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 544px; height: 1023px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/shawnessy3.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />The dress has a stand up collar, split cuffs, and side waist ruching. Pretty simple to put together, but the effect is flattering, even if I do say so myself. :-)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;">********************************<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I have been searching for buttons for my Burberry trench coat for weeks, and finally lucked out at Joann's (!) yesterday. On Saturday I made a trip to <a href="http://www.stonemountainfabric.com/">Stonemountain Fabrics</a> in Berkeley CA, and didn't like anything they had, even from an entire wall of buttons. There were some packaged Dill buttons I liked, but they didn't have enough of them. The Joann's I stopped at had just restocked, and I found these thick, shiny, glossy 4 hole La Modes in 3 sizes and bought them right away. I managed to get the collar attached, with hanging chain, and start on the hems.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscha-t4KLzUJud7A6mqQ5OGHA667FrRfgKqVA3JqkSQTTbQsFUWvEFpyy4fT-Nba27NL1E9EGTWH-XHeath3gXdSzaSplrs_QdjjeERULNwU2kg-MrZedKBof1E-L8P_sop860qdadv4/s1600-h/Trench03.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 270px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscha-t4KLzUJud7A6mqQ5OGHA667FrRfgKqVA3JqkSQTTbQsFUWvEFpyy4fT-Nba27NL1E9EGTWH-XHeath3gXdSzaSplrs_QdjjeERULNwU2kg-MrZedKBof1E-L8P_sop860qdadv4/s320/Trench03.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303535755020388194" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-LVyUy8084I68mMKEcSal4FsLPysyOROzTPu_YBw8BkwdMKqBrOFXHhmawD0okfyWEbii1MmBIQ3hwpQWgSHfCWE1bzjyEFFoZneIC2BrfaYo54dkbo5qIhDADxshat9tTJQkp-dOxLE/s1600-h/Trench02.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-LVyUy8084I68mMKEcSal4FsLPysyOROzTPu_YBw8BkwdMKqBrOFXHhmawD0okfyWEbii1MmBIQ3hwpQWgSHfCWE1bzjyEFFoZneIC2BrfaYo54dkbo5qIhDADxshat9tTJQkp-dOxLE/s320/Trench02.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303535751546597378" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBOgFknJ7CduLW6zN1ut32DK1R4AZmRh2atMiW0jjPVorzFF32JwvTWtM0Y_z6veh35RezdVZE5WgPVGnMk4RAGhVGeNv1XPxr8VHW_LeRCLykZcifcE0kKMtIQmGvArH2NTT_v7cVQI/s1600-h/Trench01.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBOgFknJ7CduLW6zN1ut32DK1R4AZmRh2atMiW0jjPVorzFF32JwvTWtM0Y_z6veh35RezdVZE5WgPVGnMk4RAGhVGeNv1XPxr8VHW_LeRCLykZcifcE0kKMtIQmGvArH2NTT_v7cVQI/s320/Trench01.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303535750821475138" border="0" /></a><br />I made some practice buttonholes, and decided I like the keyhole style on my machine. I'm having a hard time figuring out where the buttons go though, I thought trenches were supposed to button right over left or left over right? The BWOF instructions only call for buttonholes on the right side, not the left. And it calls for 2 'inside buttons', whatever that means. I'm going to have to take a look at a real trench to figure it out. I'm still looking for a belt buckle, but I think I found some nice leather ones <a href="http://www2.cleanersupply.com/products/product.cfm?pID=207">here</a>. My local cobbler can put eyelets in for me.<br /><br /></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-59313543386055205232009-01-06T12:53:00.000-08:002009-01-06T13:58:01.988-08:00Trench coat in progressI've been putting off attempting a coat, just thinking about the time and effort required was too daunting. However I own exactly one 'nice' coat, a 3/4 length J. Crew wool one, and my closet has been crying out for another one. Not that it gets too chilly here, but I do prefer the longer length in the winter time. The Burberry fabric I bought from Michael's fabrics about a year ago has been calling to me from my stash ever since, and with the almost two weeks I had off around Christmas and New Years I managed to choose a trench pattern, make a muslin, adjust it for fit, and construct most of the coat.<br /><br />I was looking at two Patrones patterns, and this <a href="http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/128_Trenchcoat_technical_drawing/1270777-1463237-1579053-1579059-1579240-1579242.html">BWOF</a> from 1/2008. I decided to go with the BWOF due to the raglan sleeves, the fabric is a thick two-sided cotton, and I didn't think set-in sleeves would ease very well.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://images.burdafashion.com/images/repos/1/000/001/629/000001629438"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 224px; height: 396px;" src="http://images.burdafashion.com/images/repos/1/000/001/629/000001629438" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://images.burdafashion.com/images/repos/1/000/001/629/000001629437"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 400px;" src="http://images.burdafashion.com/images/repos/1/000/001/629/000001629437" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />The line drawing is accurate in my opinion, it is very a-line without the belt and was too voluminous for my liking. With the belt it bunched up too much around my waist even in muslin, so I decided some of the width had to go. However everything else seemed to fit perfectly, the shoulders, bust, collar, and lengths. I thought the arms were a bit wide so I decreased there as well, but overall this was not much tweaking by my usual standards. And there was no gaping or seams not matching up like I usually deal with when using the Big 4. Very refreshing. I traced a 38, without adding seam allowances. I marked the seams on my fabric with chalk and added allowances before cutting. This made it easy to mark the seams at corners and other areas that tend to get mixed up.<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-style: italic;">About 1/4" removed from the bottom seam of both sleeve pieces. (1/2" total removed) This also decreases the armhole seam length, so I took the same amount from the body armhole seams too.<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2224.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2224.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-style: italic;">Almost an inch taken out from the side front seam, most of it at the waist and tapering elsewhere. (2" total taken from the front)<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2223.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2223.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-style: italic;">Similar adjustment done to the back pieces, most of the width coming from the waist to give it some shaping there.<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2222.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 1024px; height: 768px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2222.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />For my first coat, I'm thrilled with how it looks so far. I chose to line only the sleeves, and I'm really pleased with the overall weight. The fabric was a dream to sew, it didn't slip hardly at all, even on the long seams, and the seams pressed nicely. It shines from the iron, so be sure to use a press cloth. It looks fabulous with topstiching, and even the single welt pockets under the flaps came out nicely.<br /><br />I used the stripe side for the undercollar, underside of the front flap, underside of the sleeve tabs, and underside of the pocket flaps. It still needs buttons, hems, a buckle, attach the collar, belt loops, and some more topstiching. I got as far as handsewing the sleeve linings to the armholes, then realized I forgot to topstitch the armhole seams. Grrrrrr!! I couldn't face ripping out the linings, so I set it aside for now. This fabric is way too dense for hand topstiching, my fingers would be bleeding by the time I was done. I used a microtex 90/14 needle for all the construction, I got skipped stiches with a microtex 70/10. An 80/12 probably would have worked too but I didn't have any in my stash. As it was I'm already on my 2nd needle, it needs to be sharp to get through this fabric.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-style: italic;">Front, with the belt tied around my waist. Where to find a nice shiny black buckle and buttons?? LindsayT?<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2230.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 576px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2230.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Back, what a difference raglan shoulder pads make! When trying it on before putting those in the shoulders had a lot more wrinkles.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2229.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 539px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2229.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2232-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 768px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2232-1.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Inside, CB seam, side seams, facing edges, and pocket bags are bound with rayon seam binding.</span><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2234.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 722px; height: 1024px;" src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/loohoo44/DSCN2234.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Since I haven't made a coat before, I'm not sure if the pattern would be considered a good one or not. The lining pieces are exactly the same as the body pieces, only with lines marked to stop at the neckline facing. If I hadn't read about adjusting the lining at the armholes (less height needed when not going over the shoulder pad, and adding fabric at the underarm), it wouldn't lay as nicely as it does. There is no separate undercollar piece. If I hadn't had experience with shirtmaking my collar would look terrible. I cut the undercollar smaller, and used the shaping techniques I've used before on the collar and collar band. I also made adjustments to the facings, to account for the turn-of-the-cloth when understiching. None of these things were mentioned in the BWOF instructions, but then again they are pretty brief anyways.<br /><br />I have some sewing for hire to finish before I can pick up this coat again, but I hope it won't be too long before I can post the finished product!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-40797979976495633612008-12-25T13:37:00.000-08:002008-12-25T14:04:16.435-08:00Merry Christmas!!!Here's wishing everyone in blogland a happy holiday, whatever or whenever that may be. :-) Here at Loohoo Manor we celebrated Christmas this morning with a few gifts, having spent too much money recently (ahem serger) to justify any more extravagance.<br /><br />I bought this fabric at Stonemountain and Daughter during my Thanksgiving trip with <a href="http://assortednotions.blogspot.com/">Christina </a>to make DH a shirt, and have been stealthily working on it ever since. Discreet sewing takes a different skill than speed sewing, but they both have their difficulties. I am terrible about cleaning up my floor when sewing, and will often leave fabric scraps on the ground for weeks. Ask my husband how much he likes that. Anyways, I didn't want to leave scraps from the shirt on the floor for him to see, but I also didn't want to clean up everything or he'd be suspicious of that too. So I painstakingly picked out the shirt bits from the rest and mostly left the mess. I think I should just start cleaning up after myself.<br /><br />Thanks to <a href="http://missceliespants.blogspot.com/">Cidell</a>, I was able to finish the shirt yesterday afternoon and have it under the tree before DH got home from work. He wasn't expecting anything so it was a nice surprise. He agreed to model it for you all only if he could pose with his newish gun. *sigh*<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy-o_wZ6QOKcbgdC2dc-W0_matz6rdrmFRcbI7wUkkUtvxWjSkLktEfFx-XmHI_RfGkSt0BzLGGPEu-dQ_Smpm_5XmjdyHgVprQkRxCCV6zYgajvaE9rPH7ucftWeYzSC-Iq9UYa6E4zw/s1600-h/DSCN2184.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 170px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy-o_wZ6QOKcbgdC2dc-W0_matz6rdrmFRcbI7wUkkUtvxWjSkLktEfFx-XmHI_RfGkSt0BzLGGPEu-dQ_Smpm_5XmjdyHgVprQkRxCCV6zYgajvaE9rPH7ucftWeYzSC-Iq9UYa6E4zw/s320/DSCN2184.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283847783394852818" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0776KxXYxqn18pyIzXC_0LQb2Ndga_GV6cleuVHr2ebUEdui4Rvt5lmZ40i0zO6ZX22xp3V1AV5c9SQiDLeAj6lWhrq3zKjOEyQsDUETph5qAMgC3B7e8U7E4AOswebxXaBgntVto9kY/s1600-h/DSCN2185.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 269px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0776KxXYxqn18pyIzXC_0LQb2Ndga_GV6cleuVHr2ebUEdui4Rvt5lmZ40i0zO6ZX22xp3V1AV5c9SQiDLeAj6lWhrq3zKjOEyQsDUETph5qAMgC3B7e8U7E4AOswebxXaBgntVto9kY/s320/DSCN2185.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283847788058369218" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MemE84wL4Ptq5Uy9XjOiwpkcQNR7JKXV_h69n0xdsbNGZnaxxKQyOvv6Ido9AsjQoBDqDijKAZdOxSiwFTevNCWvbyp52ytYdsG5_LAIdwqr0PBdUws9ycgWRKS8dR8Ls_HzbBc20KU/s1600-h/DSCN2180.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8MemE84wL4Ptq5Uy9XjOiwpkcQNR7JKXV_h69n0xdsbNGZnaxxKQyOvv6Ido9AsjQoBDqDijKAZdOxSiwFTevNCWvbyp52ytYdsG5_LAIdwqr0PBdUws9ycgWRKS8dR8Ls_HzbBc20KU/s320/DSCN2180.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283847777486537362" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">The fabric is a 100% cotton, but it's got a unique feel to it, not quite a seersucker but it doesn't hold a sharp press. DH gave the thumbs up.<br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzrOolHMbt_MJgqjpqBvTVZaPC-O9LK5PLrPxeGp0CdQy5Hh7X3byes9qamo4haDtSUF-gx-Oq7M24t4IOq2Wz66-gfCQmFeVO5-d5jKWPJd1rsvNxhnM77RW2G7okgv1F_Krxo4de2Q/s1600-h/DSCN2176.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzrOolHMbt_MJgqjpqBvTVZaPC-O9LK5PLrPxeGp0CdQy5Hh7X3byes9qamo4haDtSUF-gx-Oq7M24t4IOq2Wz66-gfCQmFeVO5-d5jKWPJd1rsvNxhnM77RW2G7okgv1F_Krxo4de2Q/s320/DSCN2176.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5283847769756877698" border="0" /></a><br />This was a TNT pattern I had made back in June for his birthday, by copying his favorite short sleeve shirt. All the construction methods are straight from David Page Coffin's <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Shirtmaking-Developing-Skills-Fine-Sewing/dp/1561582646">Shirtmaking </a>book, which sadly was checked out of the library the other day when I went to get it. I had remembered how to do everything except for the collar band and attaching the collar, but a quick email to <a href="http://missceliespants.blogspot.com/">Cidell</a> fixed that. I owe that woman a gift basket. <br /><br />We had plans to go to Idaho to visit DH's family for Christmas, but the storms have dumped so much snow the roads are practically impassible. So we decided to stay home and just relax. I hope to finish up some UFOs and mending, and catch up on a few blog posts. Hope everyone is able to find some time to relax as well!<br /><br />Hugs and Stitches,<br />LeslieUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6557714347789313689.post-41879713532556067642008-12-16T11:02:00.000-08:002008-12-16T11:39:18.640-08:00Vogue 2981 PantsI finally got around to finishing my first pair of pants, this <a href="http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2981.htm">Vogue pattern</a> that <a href="http://theprincessseam.blogspot.com/">Adriana</a> nailed recently. If mine look half as good as hers then I owe partial credit to her for all the help she gave me. Thank you Adriana! The other half of the credit goes to <a href="http://luckylibbet.blogspot.com/">luckylibbet</a>, who kindly invited me over to her home to help fit the muslin and take measurements. It was like talking to a library's worth of fitting books! Thank you H. I guess I'm out of halves, but I also got help from other bloggers and patternreview, you know who you are and thank you!!<br /><br />Here are the adjustments I made to the stock pattern after all my tweaking:<br /><br />-Straightened hip curve to a straight line from waist to hip<br />-Redrafted my own waistband from a piece of 2 1/2" bias canvas<br />-Added 1/2" darts over the back pockets<br />-Took in 3/4" from each side seam in the back<br />-Narrowed legs by 1/8" on inseam and outseam<br />-Changed slant pockets to double welt pockets<br /><br />Fabrics and notions:<br /><br />-An amazing black/white/green plaid stretch wool from Michael's fabrics. It was a dream to press, sew, and wear.<br />-Black silk underlining<br />-Cotton/poly pocketing from Charles Zarit Sewing Supply, which I really like since it doesn't tend to wrinkle. <br />-Black 7" YKK zipper, also from Charles Zarit<br />-Black rayon seam binding for the inside waistband and hem raw edges<br /><br />I LOVE these pants. The underlining is far superior to lining, especially for pants. It moves as one unit instead of pants-within-pants. And the hem is handstitched to the underlining, so it's completely invisible. The fit is better than anything I've ever bought, it was worth all the tweaking to get here. And amazingly, I made no adjustments to the CB, CF, or crotch curve. I think I found a pattern that works for me. <br /><br />This was my first project completed with the help of my new serger, and it was tempting to use it on everything I could! I restrained myself and used it only to serge the underlining to the fashion fabric, finish the fly and fly facing edges, and finish the pocket edges. All places I didn't want extra bulk, and I'm very happy with the look from the outside (no pressing cloth or padding required!), but my inner couture seamstress still prefers the look of a hong-kong or bound finish.<br /><br />This was also my first attempt at double welt pockets, so naturally I decided to put in FOUR of them. Now to be fair, I did spend several hours just practicing different methods, so I felt pretty good about my technique before I tried them on my real pants. Out of the Vogue instructions, <a href="http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/doublewelt/index.html">Debbie Cook's</a> tutorial, and <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/welt_pocket_construction/">Kathleen's</a>, I decided I like Kathleen's the best. It is slightly less bulky and quicker, however it is absolutely essential to make the pressing jig, and to sew incredibly accurate seam allowances. After trying the Vogue instructions, which involved seperate welt pieces, I decided I didn't like any of the methods that have you deal with welt pieces. Both Debbie's and Kathleen's are what I'll call 'integrated' methods, the welts are formed through the sewing and folding steps. It's hard to visualize, even with their great pictures, so I recommend trying them out for yourself.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ZbIFt4KqsqwdBLmLiuUNyV4BFhLlB7h8vtoZ6GEgzAfTq0RSw9gO8keyQ7FGbYb8eV3_xWkayeum8Rf2EHdxHV5XE4gcLcukplKWu01zshg1ngJKOo1YLWADOCalgI4Ell9N0VrNKmk/s1600-h/DSCN2151.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 198px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ZbIFt4KqsqwdBLmLiuUNyV4BFhLlB7h8vtoZ6GEgzAfTq0RSw9gO8keyQ7FGbYb8eV3_xWkayeum8Rf2EHdxHV5XE4gcLcukplKWu01zshg1ngJKOo1YLWADOCalgI4Ell9N0VrNKmk/s320/DSCN2151.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280465919474408322" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEztQDkm3It9-QhmRC2ifwjEtpoypTi0sPwk_lAltDYkKf1VfrWV9-RyzfG0H_rS3No_jyJrWaawOsytsRiHb9oEvRuvgRtGY7l2xwb8yqXNMWE0fdIpp3BXdwOTO_udfcZNQJ-VLmAg/s1600-h/DSCN2152.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 144px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEztQDkm3It9-QhmRC2ifwjEtpoypTi0sPwk_lAltDYkKf1VfrWV9-RyzfG0H_rS3No_jyJrWaawOsytsRiHb9oEvRuvgRtGY7l2xwb8yqXNMWE0fdIpp3BXdwOTO_udfcZNQJ-VLmAg/s320/DSCN2152.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280465926430772402" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCVE5Vf_WM5QRC7BU7RjP4Ean0dmqcCpIj5pEiOB7rlLHgacFU9UbvqbgJEgyj6ID9o7TthE6k_YZFv26zCeh5PsE3B5tF_4r0S15JSRPeCi6uc2-zUXPeiWGdzeEEn6weauzYemgm-gQ/s1600-h/DSCN2148.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 174px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCVE5Vf_WM5QRC7BU7RjP4Ean0dmqcCpIj5pEiOB7rlLHgacFU9UbvqbgJEgyj6ID9o7TthE6k_YZFv26zCeh5PsE3B5tF_4r0S15JSRPeCi6uc2-zUXPeiWGdzeEEn6weauzYemgm-gQ/s320/DSCN2148.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280465908570029490" border="0" /></a><br />Yes I matched up the plaid on the waistband and fly too. I didn't know you didn't have to so I was very very careful with the cutting.<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDnQXGW-XBs4D5O6QqOM25g1dMsxasYWVx3txzP16HRusIpWjFd2tJtJuc00WH5uxHqOj1RZMHuLadtBkEiYmoHPGV1MvFCYXlmBMVzkBlngUoAS3CR_3Q4-_2k1U5and-OI7cyIkxsQ/s1600-h/DSCN2157.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDnQXGW-XBs4D5O6QqOM25g1dMsxasYWVx3txzP16HRusIpWjFd2tJtJuc00WH5uxHqOj1RZMHuLadtBkEiYmoHPGV1MvFCYXlmBMVzkBlngUoAS3CR_3Q4-_2k1U5and-OI7cyIkxsQ/s320/DSCN2157.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280465931177608178" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOCxtiL3M-_r61Ziw1ndxCs-Z_-WaXCcO5FqktTAUAyywrNfqVFfzJOyUTcgBSSx0Ctp_508KXNu12f_IGuBrl8W3YyNq_VYvh_-J9EsLWj99FK4xE1oHDdfyiCNwQkGke19Qu8esoXRo/s1600-h/DSCN2158.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOCxtiL3M-_r61Ziw1ndxCs-Z_-WaXCcO5FqktTAUAyywrNfqVFfzJOyUTcgBSSx0Ctp_508KXNu12f_IGuBrl8W3YyNq_VYvh_-J9EsLWj99FK4xE1oHDdfyiCNwQkGke19Qu8esoXRo/s320/DSCN2158.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280466423019364162" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">I accidentally sewed the waistband facing in the wrong way, however in this case the only thing that happened is the CB seam is now offset, but it does reduce the bulk a little there. I forgot about this when sewing on my label. Oops!<br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPF5f8K74mW2PXNZAxzLR6Kk5WePx0-zZNVL1k01JRq9ZVhPzKix84Mt3KzoyOCEFAtMAEEngxkTCk_dzzqtftKCfcNcRNPx3hq7k2ZbvqeDH8gMZee26e-uF36Oolixe7U-TnqWDBO4s/s1600-h/DSCN2156.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPF5f8K74mW2PXNZAxzLR6Kk5WePx0-zZNVL1k01JRq9ZVhPzKix84Mt3KzoyOCEFAtMAEEngxkTCk_dzzqtftKCfcNcRNPx3hq7k2ZbvqeDH8gMZee26e-uF36Oolixe7U-TnqWDBO4s/s320/DSCN2156.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280465927362371714" border="0" /></a><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZ-C3o5gq44NJP1OsU9DR31reoZ_WIdydqCYeqPY9CYP_2nlMoF7eW9HiLNrkAvNGjpnDqXHePy1IameQnX1LrQZK7BAswlZvMIFkN9dahyphenhyphenmC8SxSuDh0WcvCf-dyy-vWfAmKYfE1d_U/s1600-h/DSCN2162.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZ-C3o5gq44NJP1OsU9DR31reoZ_WIdydqCYeqPY9CYP_2nlMoF7eW9HiLNrkAvNGjpnDqXHePy1IameQnX1LrQZK7BAswlZvMIFkN9dahyphenhyphenmC8SxSuDh0WcvCf-dyy-vWfAmKYfE1d_U/s320/DSCN2162.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280466432206346546" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs5JHEUbuMpFozfLFB6LQsehQrv2da_OUD2RQliENB6gJZTfSeNqvmTi_GobVsOcEJuyLTaK6IPTFtFsWRRexse6KcPKk6MU6X_aIaWgYVbMyfjtEMmw-yZxBzxhiAIuJXoabN6eIf8co/s1600-h/DSCN2161.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs5JHEUbuMpFozfLFB6LQsehQrv2da_OUD2RQliENB6gJZTfSeNqvmTi_GobVsOcEJuyLTaK6IPTFtFsWRRexse6KcPKk6MU6X_aIaWgYVbMyfjtEMmw-yZxBzxhiAIuJXoabN6eIf8co/s320/DSCN2161.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280466427172361170" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0